selector switch issue's
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New User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6
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From: USA
selector switch issue's
S.O.S!
Food supply gone,
Leader Dead,
Send HELP!
I worked for thirty yrs on shrimp boats in the Gulf of Mexico and had to learn "White Man Trick-O-nomatry" to keep the boat afloat and making money, so I'm fair at fixin junk, till now!!
I have changed my old selector switch with the Pallak job'r and had to search out the on-on six prong toggle to try and get the sucker working.. I find that after all the wiring described in the instructions, it still don't work, except when I apply my light tester to the switch. But that only gets my gauge going on the main tank and doesn't change when switched to aft tank which is empty? Have two new sending units, have the thing wired in as described in the paperwork, even added the two in-line fuel-filters and my gas gauge don't do nothin unless I put the tester to the switch???
Anyone out there can HELP me with this? It' driving me bonkers and making me want to drink more than normal!!!!
Food supply gone,
Leader Dead,
Send HELP!
I worked for thirty yrs on shrimp boats in the Gulf of Mexico and had to learn "White Man Trick-O-nomatry" to keep the boat afloat and making money, so I'm fair at fixin junk, till now!!
I have changed my old selector switch with the Pallak job'r and had to search out the on-on six prong toggle to try and get the sucker working.. I find that after all the wiring described in the instructions, it still don't work, except when I apply my light tester to the switch. But that only gets my gauge going on the main tank and doesn't change when switched to aft tank which is empty? Have two new sending units, have the thing wired in as described in the paperwork, even added the two in-line fuel-filters and my gas gauge don't do nothin unless I put the tester to the switch???
Anyone out there can HELP me with this? It' driving me bonkers and making me want to drink more than normal!!!!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
Switch the valve to the proper tank, and then take that tank's sending unit wire and ground it, and then unground it. The gauge should swing back and forth with the key in run, engine off. You can then switch to the other tank and do the same thing again with that sending unit wire.
If neither one of those tests work, take the wire at the valve that runs up front to the gauge, and do the test again, ground and then no ground. The gauge should swing back and forth with the key in run. If it doesn't, then you have a problem with the gauge or the wiring to the gauge.
I am assuming you are using the motorized valve that switches the sending units at the valve correct?
If neither one of those tests work, take the wire at the valve that runs up front to the gauge, and do the test again, ground and then no ground. The gauge should swing back and forth with the key in run. If it doesn't, then you have a problem with the gauge or the wiring to the gauge.
I am assuming you are using the motorized valve that switches the sending units at the valve correct?
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6
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From: USA
Hey Franklin2;
I have the Pallak selector valve looks to be solinoid type. I'll try what you've come up with when the sun gets here. The one thing I've seen that's off is when testing at the toggle switch, the light on my tester pulses on-off when testing wire to sending unit's, where the Hot wire into the switch is real bright and steady Hot!
If nothing else works I wanna at least have one tank that works as I have put so much into this truck so far, paint, engine work, got er running fine, just needs tires after this Hassle!
I'm bout ready to put a 4 Sale sticker on the thing!
Charley---------------Out!
I have the Pallak selector valve looks to be solinoid type. I'll try what you've come up with when the sun gets here. The one thing I've seen that's off is when testing at the toggle switch, the light on my tester pulses on-off when testing wire to sending unit's, where the Hot wire into the switch is real bright and steady Hot!
If nothing else works I wanna at least have one tank that works as I have put so much into this truck so far, paint, engine work, got er running fine, just needs tires after this Hassle!
I'm bout ready to put a 4 Sale sticker on the thing!
Charley---------------Out!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
The pulsing voltage is coming from the gauge. All the gauges are fed pulsing power from the gauge regulator mounted in the cluster. Believe it or not, this pulsing affect keeps the needles of all the gauges reading steady as the voltage goes up and down in the truck's charging/electrical system.
And just remember, all the gauges including the fuel gauge are fed pulsing power any time the keyswitch is in run, and the gauges are grounded through the sending units. That's why if you ground or unground the wire from the gauge, it makes the needle swing back and forth.
And just remember, all the gauges including the fuel gauge are fed pulsing power any time the keyswitch is in run, and the gauges are grounded through the sending units. That's why if you ground or unground the wire from the gauge, it makes the needle swing back and forth.
