OK I have spent 30 minutes trying to post 2 pics but before I put my foot through this computer I will just say I have 2 new pics of my 55 in my gallery.
Now the help. Do the two bed crossmembers bolt to the frame seperate from the bed wood? It looks like they do but I'm not sure. Also how do you bolt the bed wood down in the rear if you have your gas tank there.
3rd question. When does this #*&$ get easier??????
Thanks

 

Yes----- They don't anymore-----N E V E R ---------------------------

 

I'm not using a stock bed, so this may not help. Also,to further complicate things..I decided to use the WoW Strips from MF.., no bolts show at all in my bed.
That said, from what I can gather on the stock arrangement, two crossmembers fit 'between' the frame-rails, just fwd and aft of the rear axle hump. They kind of slope towards the hump. so that a straight edge laid across them both will follow the frame rails.Bolts go thru the bed strips,then thru the crossmember.
The front crossmember is a "Z" shaped unit, it goes under the bottom edge of the front bed panel..and the wood gets sandwiched between both of the parts just mentioned.I don't know how /or if these are bolted'stock'.
My rear crossmember has a relief that the wood sets into and may be different than stock..did you look MF catalog for any ideas? Sorry , that's all I got.

 

if you are using the stock wood bolts, the 4 pass thru the wood and the cross members.. just fore and after of the hump.
when you don't use those 4 stock bolts, then you have to make room on the bottom side of the wood for the bolt heads of whatever you use.

I also used the wow strips.. and I had to raise my bed 3/4 inch to clear the rear axle when airbags were deflated. so I had to lengthen the 7 T bolts for the wow strips.

here is a pic sideways of mine with wood in test position on the cross members. (rear to the left). You can't tell here, but I made a 3/4 block to raise these as well.

if you have the tank mounted out back, you need to remove that to finish the bed bolt up. unless you have that extra 3/4 in.. but well, there is a much more painful way.. I did it but ug.

the rear strip bolts are hard to get to, cause they are inside the rear bed cross member.. I mad a special riser, bolted that to the bed, then clamped the wood to the riser (in between the boards), then screwed the rear stainless angle from the tailgate side into the riser so that the bolts were hidden except when the tailgate is open AND you are looking for them. I had to make a special angle to cover the extra distance the raised wood caused. (second pic)

on my front, the wood sits on top of another riser above the lip. and the Z bar is mounted to the bottom of the bed front.
Sam

and here is the pic from the MF catalog that shows the stock setup for those 4 bolts.

 

Thanks everyone, Looks like the WOW strips is my answer.
Sam, how did you do your wood to get that much depth to the wood? I was told I could use Automotive Urethane Clear on it. Is that what you did?

 

thats 6 coats of Spar Urethane varnish from Lowes.
sanded 1200/2000 before recoat. Note that the boards are stained with a maple stain to yellow the wood a little to offset with the green paint.
the plain urethane on the oak was too pale.

I used the rattle can spray, as it layed down very smooth..
a test run with a brush left all kinds of uck to deal with.
spray & sand the back side 1st, til done.. (2 weeks for me)
then flip the boards. I used a 2x4 with nails to set the boards on to prevent spray buildup on the top or bottom.

there is no wax on the final finish. (yet).. that was sanded with 1200/2000 and then buffed to clear.

Sam

and to answer your last question, easier.. FTE only has one easy way.. a one time $20 premium membership.. then u can post pics inline without having to 'upload' them somewhere separate.

top blue bar, right side, just to the left of 'Log Out'