Okay. I have a good handle on the how-to's of the primer and base. What I want to know is about the clear coat.

Since I'm going with a rather drab army green solid color, I want it to appear as deep as possible. What I want to know is:

How many coats can or should I put on?

Do I need to sand between each coat - wet or dry?

How long does it have to dry before sanding between coats?

What do I do once I've put the final coat on?

What other tips can you give me to get that deep look?

Thanks guys.

 

Hello Carlene,
I not much help on this one but everything I have read on bc/cc paint recommends following the P-sheet to the letter and I don’t think you will hear a universal answer on sanding and recoat times without knowing the brand of paint you’ll be shooting. I have read where the clear can be sanded between coats and that there is a time window to following, again depending on the paint.

In applying coats of clear, I have never heard of more than three coats but I’m am sure others with more custom painting experience will offer their thoughts. I think ‘solvent pop’ becomes an issue with too much build.

 

Thanks Tom.

Never thought about telling the brand I'm using. Just assumed that there are some general rules of thumb. I'm using PPG everything. Don't know the product # off hand. I've read the P-sheet and all already but it's not telling me what I want to know as far as depth.

So if 3 coats are the limit, how do they get that deep look. Here's what keeps me dwelling on this. One of our clients had his black Mercedes parked next to his lawyers black Lexus and the depth of the paint on the Mercedes made the Lexus look like it was painted with a rattle can. I want to try and achieve that Mercedes look.

Thanks again.

 

Put the clear over the basecoat. Apply 3 good coats on it. Let it dry. It probably take 24hrs dry time unless you have a paint cure light. You can put accelerator in it to help dry quicker. After dry you can color sand and buff. Also dont wax for 30 days. Hope that helps

 

Build is an issue indeed, but flashing of the build is where it becomes visiable. You know what, I can copy/ paste the best bit of info I know better then anything else here.

(the minute hand circles the dial)

Ok, got it.

Gotta a date with a fish, but in scramming out the door I'll add that "Limits" are more defined by working conditions, application, and materials used then that of "coats". PPG, great stuff!

Whip out those reading glasses, Stylesider


(Stolen by me from "Spray Paint Defects: Their Cause and Cure"
By Gerald L. Schneberger, Ph.D., PE)

Solvent popping, or pinholes, appear when solvent evaporates so quickly from a wet film (paint) that the increasingly viscous liquid paint is unable to flow into the resulting void. Here are common causes of solvent popping:

Temperature: High oven temperatures heat wet film too quickly, causing the solvent to vaporize. Film cannot flow into resulting voids fast enough.

Solvent Blend: Too much low-boiling solvent (thinner) may cause popping during flash or upon entering the oven. Conversely, too much high-boiling solvent may result in popping near the end of the oven—when solvent boiling point is attained.

Film Thickness: Wet paint film that is too thick may cause popping because it contains too much solvent. Solvent that doesn't flash may boil in the oven, resulting in popping.

Spray Distance: Too-close spraying causes extra solvent to reach the surface. Increasing distance lets droplets lose more solvent into the air.

Flash Time/Line Speed: Increasing flash time or decreasing line speed may lower amount of popping, resulting in solvent loss before part heats up.

Air Pressure: Higher air pressure causes more solvent loss into the air. Popping may be reduced, but an undesired thin film coating can result because of greater overspray—meaning less paint is applied.

Paint Pressure: Too-low paint pressure causes small paint droplets and greater solvent loss into the air. Popping may decrease, but a thinner film may result because less paint is applied.

Air Velocity: Low air velocity can make popping occur because of slowed solvent evaporation. Too much solvent may remain in the film when entering the oven.

Disclaimer: these are but the common issues, highly subject to Murphy's law, batteries not included, your pin hole may vary, order before midnight tonight, SUNDAY! SUNDAY! SUNDAY!

 

Okay Carlene he is what I prefer to do on something that will be shown or the owner wants a near perfect finish (also used on the HoK video's)

Spray Three coats of Clear on let it dry 24 hrs Unless you can bake it (usually 140 or 150 degree's for 30 or 45 minutes) and sand all the imperections out with 600 grit wet sanding.. then Recoat 2x and let dry again and sand and buff with 1200 and 2000 grit paper and the appropriate Compounds. It is most likley you WILL not get a perfect finish (dust and runs and such) but if you wet the floor, blow off the vehicle (the masked area's especially) and then Tack the panels off with a tackrag...it will give you the best results.

 

Thanks Scott ! ! !

That's what I was looking for.

A couple more questions:

1. What compounds are recommended?

2. What do you mean by Tack the panels off?

May help you to know that I'm painting the truck in pieces. Doing the Cab and Doors together. Will paint the Hood & Fenders together and lastly will do the box.

Thanks again.

 

Well I start with some extra Cut compound and work my way up the finish glaze (three Steps) always using a Foam pad. I can get you my part number tmw. Its all by 3m. i think they are about 20 bucks a bottle.


As for a "tacking" the panel off, I mean lightly run a tack rag over the panels to be painted. I think they are about 40 cents. If you cant find any let me know. Ill ship ya some. =) but your paint supply store should have them.

 

I think your gonna want to spray all panels at the same time to get the same color. Mixing and spraying at different times might get you some shade differences.

 

That was one of my concerns, but a couple of bodywork friends I have told me that with the shape of the cab, fenders and hood, any minor color differences wouldn't be that noticeable. They just said to make sure to paint the cab with the doors and the fenders with the hood and the tailgate with the box. Plus, the one said that if I didn't like it, he'd redo it for free and he's been in the business for over 30 years. I try not to bother him much.

How can I go wrong???