how to trip my engine light code 88 F150
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how to trip my engine light code 88 F150
Hello all......I have just purchased an 88 F150 with a EFI 302. I have a chk engine light on and would like to pull the code....I honestly can not find anything telling me how to do this.....I tried searching the forum, and i googled it.....
I know how to read codes, just dont know how to trip it on this truck....First ford truck I have owned....
please help !
Oh, I also have a RABS light on as well.....although im not soooo concearned about that at the moment.
I know how to read codes, just dont know how to trip it on this truck....First ford truck I have owned....
please help !
Oh, I also have a RABS light on as well.....although im not soooo concearned about that at the moment.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
It's pretty simple, find the EEC Test harness on the drivers side inner fender, put a jumper between SelfTest-In and Sig-Rtn lines, turn the key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light. Lots more info on this procedure, pics, code definitions, and more at www.fordfuelinjection.com.
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From: Vail, AZ
Check out this web site. Code scanning starts on page 67
Ford EEC IV - Flash version, courtesy of PowerShow.com
Ford EEC IV - Flash version, courtesy of PowerShow.com
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From: Vail, AZ
The ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor is cheap and easy to replace. The EGR(Exhaust Gas Recirculation) vales are notorious for sticking. So i would rplace it to. Not to much money for both.
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thanks for the help guys, i appreciate it.
Actually, i was thinking of eliminating the EGR anyhow........not sure on that one though
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Note: The engine has to be at operating temp before the test is run or the ECT and ACT often report out of range. Also note that the dash gauge is not connected to the engine computer at all and uses it's own dedicated temp sensor.
EGR valve not opening could be a broken vacuum line between the valve and control solenoid(EVR) which is located near the coil.
EGR valve not opening could be a broken vacuum line between the valve and control solenoid(EVR) which is located near the coil.
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Note: The engine has to be at operating temp before the test is run or the ECT and ACT often report out of range. Also note that the dash gauge is not connected to the engine computer at all and uses it's own dedicated temp sensor.
EGR valve not opening could be a broken vacuum line between the valve and control solenoid(EVR) which is located near the coil.
EGR valve not opening could be a broken vacuum line between the valve and control solenoid(EVR) which is located near the coil.
OK. after much reading and learning......I did a re-test with engine at operating temp.....still getting the ECT.. and EGR.........I pulled the EGR, it did not seem to bad.....i did clean it out....little bit of carbon build up with some on the position sensor itself.....the diaphragm moves with no binding and it holds suction....Im pretty confident in the mechanical serviceability of the EGR......Im going to go ahead and replace the ECT first and see what happens....
then im going to check the EVR out really good......if it chks good im going to replace the EGR sensor first, that is if the ECT doesnt fix everything. (its 30 bucks rather then 94 bucks for the valve.....) im going to keep the EGR active rather than eliminating it....
ill let yall know what happens.....
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It's pretty simple, find the EEC Test harness on the drivers side inner fender, put a jumper between SelfTest-In and Sig-Rtn lines, turn the key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light. Lots more info on this procedure, pics, code definitions, and more at www.fordfuelinjection.com.
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oh real quick.....Im about to leave and get the afore mentioned sensors......
I was reading on fordfuelinjection......that you need to disconnect the neg batt term after replacing a sensor.......and that it stores last known working configurations or something......my question is, how should i go about properly replacing sensors, clearing the codes, and returning to service....i couldnt find anything about it other then some guy leaving the batt disconnected for 30 min and a bunch of people flaming him about doing it wrong and erasing the EEC's memory...thanks and il stop buggin yall.
I was reading on fordfuelinjection......that you need to disconnect the neg batt term after replacing a sensor.......and that it stores last known working configurations or something......my question is, how should i go about properly replacing sensors, clearing the codes, and returning to service....i couldnt find anything about it other then some guy leaving the batt disconnected for 30 min and a bunch of people flaming him about doing it wrong and erasing the EEC's memory...thanks and il stop buggin yall.
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UPDATE
Well, the ECT sensor did the trick.......runs 1000 times better and after over 50 miles now, no engine light.....thank goodness i didnt jump the gun on the 90 dollar EGR and did some reading and opted for the 20 dollar ECT....thanks for yall's help
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From: Calverton
It's pretty simple, find the EEC Test harness on the drivers side inner fender, put a jumper between SelfTest-In and Sig-Rtn lines, turn the key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light. Lots more info on this procedure, pics, code definitions, and more at www.fordfuelinjection.com.
Hi Conanski
your link is a great site, but they are not that clear on this procedure...I'm having a bit of a problem understanding their directions for using the engine light to retrieve codes.
As I understand it, I would
1-connect a wire from STI to neg bat
2-connect a wire from STO to SIG-RTN
3-read codes from eng light
is this correct, I don't want to connect wires without a clear direction, thanks for your help
