that might be a little above what my knowledge and skills allow

 

Very true. The rule of thumb is that if you have a light performance car, you can have full advance (38°) in by 3000 RPM or even 2500 BUT and it is an important but in a heavier truck, even with low gears, 3500 RPM is better and if you are gonna be towing, 4000 RPM is more realistic.

I tried 3500 on both my 1968 390 and my 1984 460 and both had slow overheat issues at 3500. Both were cured by using heavier springs to get the 4000 RPM number. The problem is when towing and not at WOT the vacuum advance pulls the timing around to much, but when not towing, you need that vacuum advance or you MPG is in the dumper.

 

Quick question,
my MSD 8595 dizzy came with 4 advance stop bushings ranging from 18 to 28*.
I should install the 28* bushing yah, is there gunna be a problem since its not 38*?

 

28° + 10° initial timing = 38° total mechanic advance.

 

lmfao, wow that was so simple it made me feel stupid!!!
thanks mann

 

Another thing you could do is add a velocity tuner to it. It goes in the air intake an when I had my HHR it increase it by 2-4mpg an they have them for carb engines to. I use it on all my vehicles you can get it off there website velocitytuner.com. Also switch out all the cast iron on the engine it just weights it down & some of you starter & alt an stuff claim to add mpg to your engine might want to look into that to. Other than what everybody said an the tires an not raised up or anything not a lot of ways to increase mpg on these engines. Another thing change out the steel wheels on these trucks that just more weight.

 

There's so much funny Chit in this thread ! My 70 F250 got 10mpg no matter what..It carried a 13' overhead camper on it back for 30 years...and towed the boat..towed the race car...carried the MX bikes...went with an empty bed for 2 years...and up hill down hill with the wind blowing it still got 10mpg.. went from 3:73's out back to 4:10's and still 10mpg's...took off the 9.50x16.5's and went BFG's AT'a 12.50x33x16.5's still 10mpg...

Thats my Story and I'am stickin to it ! Good to see ya again Kenny ! I'll get around to writting you sometime today..once I get the fireplace a roarin...

 

My new purchase is a 1971 F100, 360 Auto. I have every gas receipt the prior owner ever put in the tank. He wrote down 10.5 MPG on each slip. His notes said towing the trailer, empty shell, added dual exhaust, added radials, but always has mid 10 MPG.

 

Well after just adjusting my timing, from the calculations I am able to get, I am getting 11.461 miles per gallon, that is with 70 mph highway driving on a fairly long trip, I know there are probably some skeptical people, and that could be a little wrong but I used mileages based on google maps and adjusted the driving directions to exactly where I drove, I did not use the odometer because I put larger tires on the truck (30X9.50-15's as compared to 215/75R15s) my speed is off by approximatly 5 mphs at 70, using the odometer and measuring mpg's it shows 10.315 which is still pretty good it seems to me, I plan on adding a good set of headers as soon as I can afford, then in the future a Edelbrock Intake and Carb, a better cam, and rebuilt heads, that will take some time and I am not at all unhappy right now, I will probably also look into putting a fan clutch on and am interested in any other opinions of greatness

 

All a motor does is such air in, and push it out. So anything that helps that process is going to help power or economy. While a F100 is a brick, my 07 GMC 1500 got 20-22 pretty much no matter how fast I went. But it had high flow manifolds compared to the old stuff, and I add a tune, cat-back, and intake.

If you think the engineers ever had it perfect remember the bean counters had the final say, and kept it affordable. Also 60-70's tech while reliable was not even cutting edge for the day. They were built to work and be cheap to produce.

While I go for hwy mpg's it pays for me to do such things becouse of the amount I drive. I live in the LA area and doing 60-70 miles a day is easy. So my pay-off time is faster, but I always upgrade at repair times.

Also I am willing to cut down ability to work for mpgs becouse I do not need a truck to haul much more then a good Home Depot run.

 

Are these AT's you have on your truck? Or some other form of off-roading tire?

Most type of AT's can clip mpgs off a truck. The varibilitys are pretty wild but they always get there share of your pocket book.

 

You can not compare '50s and '60s technology with 2000 technology so your MPG comparison is bogus at best.

 

They are Michelin XC LT4 I think they are highway tires but could be wrong. I usually would prefer all terrain tires but got a deal on these and they look pretty good So they will work for now

 

hello, im lookin for some headers for my 360, how much would u want for them, are they new?

 

Are you talking to me???

Iv got a set of new Hooker headers, threw the boxes away along time ago to save on space but still have everything that came with them, left and right header, header bolts, hooker stickers, and installation instructions
Just looking for about what I payed for them.
call it 200$ plus shipping... ill save you 10 bucks off what they are listed now, although I think I payed more for them a few years ago