I have a 1986 F-150 4x4, 302F.I., AOD........I found this truck on the side of the road for 450.00 bucks...with the crankshaft hanging out of the block. So, since February I have had the engine rebuilt stock with premium parts, heads gone through, water pump, starter....then when that was done, the transmission was shot...complete rebuild with mild shift kit, then it would not stop....new calipers and pads, rear shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders and brake lines......then front axleshaft u-joints clunking, tore the entire front axle down...new bearings, seals, u-joints, front and rear driveshaft u-joints....then new ball joints, all tie rods and drag link, steering box and rag joint....battery, radiator, and many small items.
The good? Air conditioner worked great after 3 cans of freon and oil, body is straight as an arrow, very little rust, interior is like new.
A few questions...exhaust has two catylytic converters that are going to be cut off with the rest of the system...I use this truck on my farm for the most part and trips to town, will eliminating the converters cause a problem as far as back pressure?
Should the lockouts ''float'' somewhat? they do not stay flush up against the hub itself, you can push them in about an 1/8'' or so, I read on a Warn bulletin that they should ''float''...however, I do not remember them being like this when I got the truck.
Thanks for your help......

 

It can cause EGR error codes on some vehicles if you open the exhaust up too much, but I think you are ok on a truck. Some vehicles use a pressure sensor on the EGR line to detect EGR flow, but I don't think your truck has this system. If you are going to drive it on the road though, I would leave the converters on it.

The lockouts do sometimes mount up loose and rattle. A new o-ring around the hub may help tighten it up some. It's the relationship between the inner part that is held in by the wire retainer, and the lip of the hub that seems to affect this. It won't hurt anything though.