EBP Valve
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Alfred NY and Long Island
EBP Valve
Hey guys I have a question for you about this EBP valve. I know a bit about working on engines, but this is my first 7.3. My mechanic is trying to get me to replace the whole Pedestal with a new EBP valve. The truck is a 1997 7.3 automatic
The truck on occasion will start but seems like the EBP valve is staying closed.
I was wondering if I unplugged the EBP valve, would the valve stay opened or closed? That way I could find out if that's the problem before I go replacing everything?
If the valve is staying closed would it make the truck feel gutless, and just underpowered?
Thanks everyone! I appreciate the help.
Dennis
The truck on occasion will start but seems like the EBP valve is staying closed.
I was wondering if I unplugged the EBP valve, would the valve stay opened or closed? That way I could find out if that's the problem before I go replacing everything?
If the valve is staying closed would it make the truck feel gutless, and just underpowered?
Thanks everyone! I appreciate the help.
Dennis
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,773
Likes: 1
From: Texas Coast
Either the armature is sticking or the sensor is fouled or dead. The tube running to the front sensor can also be plugged. You may want to pull the tube and clean the sensor & tube. Most unplug it and then some unplug it a create a choke pull that can be ran into the inside of the truck for manual control of the EBPV
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 869
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
yeah it does slow it down. I think theres a 2 wire connector on the drivers side down low on the pedestal you could unplug it to test your theory i think it will stay open. is it leaking oil? cant think of any good reason to replace the pedestal other than its cracked and leaking oil or possibly the actuator rod leaks oil. the valve isnt critical to engine opperation it helps the engine warm up when its cold. unplugging it wont hurt anything.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,158
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From: West Texas
When it is below freezing out they will stay shut a lot unless you got a load on the truck. It's normal. Oil temp is what tells it that it needs to close. My oil and water don't even think about getting up to operating temp unless I cover the radiator and take off the fan and I have put a couple new ford thermostats in it lately. It doesn't matter. You can probably leave it alone if you want or unplug it.
And there is no reason to replace one unless the aluminum is cracked somewhere. YOu can get a rebuild kit for around 100 bucks or less these days. It's real easy to do too.
And there is no reason to replace one unless the aluminum is cracked somewhere. YOu can get a rebuild kit for around 100 bucks or less these days. It's real easy to do too.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Alfred NY and Long Island
Thanks for the replies everyone. I am not against having it on the truck. What I am against though is when it doesnt stop doing it when the truck gets up to Operating Temp. Even if I do turn it off and back on. Plus its hit or miss, this morning it didn't do, and I let the truck sit for 8 hours, and it didn't do it again.
Tomorrow morning its gonna be in the 20's so I am gonna test my theory in the AM.
Whats the positive side of taking it off completely? What are you gaining? I was on www.puredieselperformance.com, and I see they have a EPBV gutted and a plug you plug into the wire you disconnect so the computer doesn't give a code. Has anyone else used this?
Thanks
Dennis
Tomorrow morning its gonna be in the 20's so I am gonna test my theory in the AM.
Whats the positive side of taking it off completely? What are you gaining? I was on www.puredieselperformance.com, and I see they have a EPBV gutted and a plug you plug into the wire you disconnect so the computer doesn't give a code. Has anyone else used this?
Thanks
Dennis
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
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From: Plankinton, SD
The positives are no chance of leaking, taking the butterfly out of the exhaust housing also provides better air flow, although not a lot it does. Negatives are it will take longer to warm up. If you had a chip with a fast idle on it that would almost offset the warmup issue.
For some reason the link won't work for me this morning but I just took the pedestal off and cut the piece with the actuator off. There is then a few holes to fill in with an aluminum welder and its done. Paid a friend in a shop with an alum. welder 10 bucks and it was done. My tymar downpipe came with instructions on how to remove the butterfly out of the exhaust housing when I did it so I did that initially.
Check out this thread, I did the one gobstopper put in
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=EBPV+removal
For some reason the link won't work for me this morning but I just took the pedestal off and cut the piece with the actuator off. There is then a few holes to fill in with an aluminum welder and its done. Paid a friend in a shop with an alum. welder 10 bucks and it was done. My tymar downpipe came with instructions on how to remove the butterfly out of the exhaust housing when I did it so I did that initially.
Check out this thread, I did the one gobstopper put in
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=EBPV+removal
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Either the armature is sticking or the sensor is fouled or dead. The tube running to the front sensor can also be plugged. You may want to pull the tube and clean the sensor & tube. Most unplug it and then some unplug it a create a choke pull that can be ran into the inside of the truck for manual control of the EBPV
Pretty cool way to embed pics Rocky! You clever devil! Best to you and yours!
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