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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Wheel not centered in opening

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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #1  
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Wheel not centered in opening



Was wondering what your opinion is. Do you think it's off center enough to doctor the opening or should I just live with it. My calulations figure the wheel is between 1 to 1 1/2" forward of center. If I do decide to cut up the fenders I figure I'll cut up the F600 fenders I have and save these for my pickup.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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take the easy way out and just move the axel/suspen back what your off..
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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It is like the old saying"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right". If you have the ability, I say doctor the openings, or you will always wish you did. On stock trucks the wheels always appear to be too far back in the wheel wells. With yours too far forward it will really stand out next to a stock truck.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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If you want to do it like most here would move it back 3 inches to the stock position then cut it up again and move it 1.5 inches forward.
It was originally a steering geometry thing.
If you really want to get wierded out check out the turning radius for both left hand and right hand turns.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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Black fender with a dark picture, its kinda hard to see the whole effect!! or mabe i`m just getting old! with the finish product rims are you going with a lower profile tire? if so that will increase the front fender gap and will look good.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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I had asked the question previously about (48-50) needing to move the axle center one inch forward as I had read somewhere. Someone came back and said moving the center applied to later trucks. They said as weight increases or heavy braking the center moves forward as the stock springs press downward. If your springs are old, heavy engine etc maybe if all this applies to you, will it put the tires into the fenders and cause damage. Someone here answer this. I don't know your axle either. No pic's in you galley. Also the red 56 in you galley appears to have the same wheel forward. chuck
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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it looks better like this than to be nose heavy like a lot of them, just my 2 cents worth
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:07 AM
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It is a 72 c10 chevy frame. pictures are in rotiserrie album. When you open the front of the fender opening and close the rear portion the same amount it counteracts the front end heavy look. IMHO.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 01:22 AM
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i think mid fifty sells some springs to correct this issue.

DOWN AND FORWARD SPRING
Moves the center point forward 1 1/4”. Centers the wheel in wheel well,
moves center line forward for better weight distribution and improves handling
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 03:01 AM
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I guess it comes down to which is the best avenue to solve the problem, moving the suspension or change the fender opening to suit.
What type of front suspension do you have and would it be difficult to move back?
IMHO i think the fender might end up looking short in the front section
Just my 2c

John
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by B/B ford
It is a 72 c10 chevy frame. pictures are in rotiserrie album. When you open the front of the fender opening and close the rear portion the same amount it counteracts the front end heavy look. IMHO.
What a chevy frame!!, thats just too dark for me!!!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by B/B ford
It is a 72 c10 chevy frame. pictures are in rotiserrie album. When you open the front of the fender opening and close the rear portion the same amount it counteracts the front end heavy look. IMHO.
Good point, maybe I should just move the back of the opening forward and make a smaller opening. I haven't got the wheels yet that I'd be running, I have to get a positive off set to bring the it in about 1" and will have to go with a larger diameter rim, likely 17 or 18" to clear everything so will be running a lower profile tire as well. The tires that are on there now stand 28 1/2" tall now and was wondering how tall most of you are running on yours.
Before I did the frame swap I had read about lowering the F100 to move the axle center line forward 1 1/2" and if doing changes in the rear to move it back 3/4", so when I shortened the frame of the C10 I made it 112" wheel base not realizing ( because I wasn't paying attention) that the rear wheel well opening is much smaller on a panel than on a pickup. Lesson learned, and now I'm in this predicament, as is there is no issue of the tire rubbing other than it is too close to the fender but the offsets will look after that. I thought of moving the front crossmember back but that would also mean moving steering box, shocks, sway bar and idlerarm support. Translates into a lot of work either way so will likely start hacking the fenders but have to decide if I move the whole opening or just the back half.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:07 AM
  #13  
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http://image.classictrucks.com/f/339..._f100+side.jpg

Moving the wheel well opening forward would look like this, I don't mind the look myself.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by thepitshop
What a chevy frame!!, thats just too dark for me!!!
But you got to see it with your shades on lol
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #15  
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heres a bit of reading material for you! might help you a bit
1953 Ford F-100 - Classic Trucks Magazine
 
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