Floor panels
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 72
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From: Washington State
Floor panels
As many of you out there, I am needing to replace both sides of my floor in my '63 F100. I have heard of South Carolina Classics offering floor pans for my year, but was wondering if anyone has used them. I am not sure about the gauge size of the panels (I think I heard they were 19) and how they compare to original equipment. Also, I was thinking of using a air shears from Harbor Freight to cut out the cancer on the old pans and was wondering if this tool has enough "spit" to cut through those thicknesses. Thanks for your help and ideas.
Jim
Jim
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Floor panels
Im not aware of the floor pan quality but am with the tool you want to use. Air shears are great for cuts in open spaces, say a new sheet of flat sheet metal. They dont work that great on irregular surfaces. I have not seen the floor you want to work on but if it has the ridges added to the sheet metal for support
(eg., soup can) like many pans do then I would suggest an air nibbler. Of course a plasma cutter is far the best tool if cost is no option. You may be able to justify its existence by making Christmas decorations and selling them on the street corner (LOL). Seriously though, this is one cool tool. The air nibbler works great in the tight corners you will encounter. If you buy one make sure to check to see if there are parts available for it (cutting head). All these tools sold dirt cheap are great but some become throw away items. To extend the life of the cutting head try to cut sheet metal and not rust. Your cuts on the floor pan should be an inch or two outside the rusted area.
(eg., soup can) like many pans do then I would suggest an air nibbler. Of course a plasma cutter is far the best tool if cost is no option. You may be able to justify its existence by making Christmas decorations and selling them on the street corner (LOL). Seriously though, this is one cool tool. The air nibbler works great in the tight corners you will encounter. If you buy one make sure to check to see if there are parts available for it (cutting head). All these tools sold dirt cheap are great but some become throw away items. To extend the life of the cutting head try to cut sheet metal and not rust. Your cuts on the floor pan should be an inch or two outside the rusted area.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Floor panels
The floor pans fit great except for the short flat section near the kick panel area. Mine fell 3/8" short of reaching the kick panels. I welded in some flat stock to make up the difference before fully installing them. Other than that, they line up with all of the grooves and such. One exception, my pans were crowned in the center and it made it hard to spot weld onto the cab floor supports. I ended up clamping them, installing rivets to hold tight and welding all holes after spot welding a few tacks in.
I would strongly suggest using a sawzall with a metal blade to remove the old floor. Remove only what you have to as welding in the entire panel is really a waste of time.
You will also need to look up the toeboard and purchase some flat stock as the panels in question only extend about 1" up toeboard.
I would strongly suggest using a sawzall with a metal blade to remove the old floor. Remove only what you have to as welding in the entire panel is really a waste of time.
You will also need to look up the toeboard and purchase some flat stock as the panels in question only extend about 1" up toeboard.
