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Installed Autozone Gold-Duralast 3-bolt starter (2002 7.3L PSD) – w/ Pics

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  #16  
Old 12-30-2010, 02:08 PM
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I bought a new starter from autozone for my 6.9 few years ago. It is much lighter, turns faster then the one that was in there and is still working fine. I don't think I would be afraid of there starters with my experience but please chim in anybody with there experience maybe I'm wrong. Chet
 
  #17  
Old 12-30-2010, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
The two types of starter motors for our engines are commonly referred to as PLGR (PLanetary Gear Reduction) or "Mitsubishi-design", and OSGR (Off-Set Gear Reduction) or "Denso" design.

There are no starters capable of starting our 7.3's that are "direct drive" of which I am aware.

Depending on the mechanical design and power consumption, there can be both lower-torque and higher-torque models for both of these types, and will crank the engines over similarly. There are 3.6KW starters available for both designs, and those are what is commonly referred-to as "high-torque". I believe the stock starters are 2.5KW units, and will not spin quite as fast.

For an explanation of how there can be a gear reduction on what seems to be a straight-through design, see the planetary set below.



Pop
Oops! Wrong Terminology, don't know where I got "direct-drive" from...

Great explanation though! Reps to you!
 
  #18  
Old 12-30-2010, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
...don't know where I got "direct-drive" from...
Great explanation though! Reps to you!
Do not apologize, direct drive does exist in some starters. My 1982 diesel 720 truck has a DD starter.
 
  #19  
Old 12-30-2010, 05:59 PM
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my 6.9idi is a direct drive. but you can get either for it
 
  #20  
Old 12-30-2010, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dn29626
Do not apologize, direct drive does exist in some starters. My 1982 diesel 720 truck has a DD starter.
However, 2.2 liters is a long way from 7.3.

Our lug nuts probably take more torque than that engine makes.

Pop
 
  #21  
Old 12-30-2010, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by b-uno
my 6.9idi is a direct drive. but you can get either for it
As I recall, that 6.9 IDI starter is huge and heavy, and the gear-reduction replacement was inevitable.

Pop
 
  #22  
Old 12-30-2010, 11:52 PM
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they dont seem that big to me.
 
  #23  
Old 12-31-2010, 07:44 PM
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Well after the 3-bolt starter was installed I wasn’t really happy with how tight the battery terminal cable was and in addition it was rubbing against an engine frame bracket (see picture below). It seemed things were much better with the two bolt starter.



<OSo I checked two additional Autozones in my area to see if any of their “new” gold-duralast starters were 2- bolts and they were all 3-bolts. Each Autozone only had 1 so the two additional I looked at plus the one I bought were all 3-bolts. Only the remanufactured duralast starter was a 2-bolt so I bought one. Here you can see the comparison shots of all three starters and you can see that the solenoid is in a different location for the 3-bolt starter which if your truck original came with a 2-bolt starter makes the cable a little difficult to install and pretty tight once installed.

<O</OComparison shots:<O</O













<O
 
  #24  
Old 12-31-2010, 07:45 PM
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Here are pictures of the part number and made in information for the remanufactured starter:






http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...00711_23521_0_<O</O


Just looking at the information on Autozones website it lists the new gold-duralast at 12 pounds versus the remanufactured duralast at 11 pounds which is probably the difference in weight between the 3-bolt and 2-bolt starter.


<O</OSo after getting the 2-bolt installed the battery terminal cable tension was much better with a just a little slack in the cable and much better clearance to the engine frame bracket. I did bend the battery terminal 90 degree tab a little to make sure the cable didn’t rub on the dip stick tube which the previous 2-bolt starter was slightly doing.<O</O





Now learn from my mistake and don’t over tighten the battery terminal nut or this will happen. Glad I had the warranty.

<O</O>
<O</O
Second time around I only snugged the nut to 60 in-lbs and will check it along with the starter mounting bolts to make sure nothing comes loose over time. I think I can install that starter blindfolded now.

<O</OI hope this helps others who may be looking at the different starter options.<O</O
</O
 
  #25  
Old 01-14-2011, 03:38 PM
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Bump, for a new guy that's looking for stuff on how to avoid junk starters.

Pop
 
  #26  
Old 01-14-2011, 07:14 PM
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Great writeup and pics. I still like the idea of a local rebuild, will look into it when the time comes, supporting our own but not everybody has that option, time, mechanical skills, exct.
 
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:44 PM
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I know this thread is kinda dead but does anyone have any advice on what to look out for when getting a starter rebuilt?
 
  #28  
Old 09-03-2017, 06:58 AM
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I got my reference from my lawn mower shop about three years ago and kept the information. If you google it you should find some shops local to you. Maybe you can find some yelp reviews on them.
 
  #29  
Old 09-03-2017, 01:04 PM
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thanks I just bought a denso style starter from napa with their full lifetime guarantee but since there is no core charge i would like to get the old starter rebuilt as a safety because I dont want to get stuck somewhere and starters arent that hard to replace on the run.
 
  #30  
Old 09-03-2017, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by urbanp
thanks I just bought a denso style starter from napa with their full lifetime guarantee but since there is no core charge i would like to get the old starter rebuilt as a safety because I dont want to get stuck somewhere and starters arent that hard to replace on the run.
That doesn't sound right. Usually they require you to trade in the old one for the replacement. What's to keep you from going to a different NAPA with the same bad starter and getting another free replacement without having to pay for a rebuild?
 


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