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There is a terrible, and sometimes somewhat loud(and incredibly annoying) sound coming from the speedometer cable. When I drive I can feel it vibrating if I put my hand on the cable just as it goes into the cluster.
Both times I've driven it the last two days, it has gotten much quieter after driving for a while, but just a couple hours ago I went to take it around the neighborhood for a friend and it was as loud as it started yesterday the entire time, and never got better.
I also know it's the cable because when it starts and gets louder, the speed needle gets incredibly wavy and inaccurate. Whereas when the noise quiets down or stops completely(typically at lower speeds), it gets much more stable and accurate.
I have heard that speedometer cables need grease, and can actually be re-lubed when they get wavy, which is a sign of age and dryness.........can I do that with this thing? How? I have a grease gun for grease zerks, will that help me out?
The cable core may need replacing,which is easy.I had to replace my entire core/outer housing,as the cable broke,and I couldn't remove one of the broken pieces.Do you have the factory manual?You would not want to use chasiss grease.Remove the entire cable assembly by disconnecting it at the back of the speedo,and at the transmission.Remove from truck ,lay it out flat,pull out the core if possible,examine,and if not frayed or damaged,clean and degrease it.Degrease cable housing,by spraying plenty of carb cleaner into it,till it runs clear.Run the core through it,to assure removal of dried grease and dirt,Repeat as necessary,untill everything is clean.Finish up by lightly lubing the core with a white lithium grease,re-insert into housing,re-install on truck.That's how I did mine.
Edit note:Some people use graphite lubricant,instead of white lithium grease.
what do you need a speedo for ?? if traffic is getting away your going to slow if your passsing them..your speeding(not likely with our trucks!!)you can try replaceing the core it's about 18 buck from N P D....page 132..
Also, you should put a drop or 2 of oil in the back of the speedo. There is a weep hole there for that. The shop manual should tell you about that.They say it should be light oil like sewing machine oil. My speedo made the same noise and the needle jumped around. When I had my speedo out the weep hole was full of dirt and grime and years of hay chaff. I cleaned mine out by shooting WD-40 in it and using a Q-tip and a toothpick. I did not have to do anything to the cable. good luck.
I had the same thing happen in my 52 when I first bought it. Eventually the noise went away. However, just recently after resurrecting the truck and driving it for a few trips, the speedo stopped working. I disconnected the cable and inspected it. That's when I found that the cable broke at the transmission connection.
Luckily, I had an cable that "Julie" gave me a year ago from "her" truck. I sprayed some carb cleaner inside the cable while holding the cable allowing the gravity to pull the fluid down and drain from the bottom. I then took household lubricant, similar to the 3n1 or Liquid Wrench brands, and poured inside the cable until it flowed out from the bottom. I let the cable hang for a few minutes and then re-installed it. The cable squealed quietly for a short distance and then the noise disappeared.
Fleet speedometer should have any parts you need. they are @ 4th & Union here in Bakersfield. You should be able to get graphite lube at Lowes or Home depot.
Got your PM
To add to all the good tips you have received, be sure that the cable is not too close to the exhaust. Heat will bake the lubricant. I had a simular problem and replaced the cable and sheath for around $21.00 and the problem went away. Good luck.
Removed the cable and cleaned it, then I oiled the hell out of it. For all intents and purposed, it's perfect now. No noise and is much more stable, not perfectly still, but it's better than before. I know the oil is a temporary solution so I'll go back with white lithium grease later.
I couldn't find the graphite stuff at lowes, maybe I'll try home depot later.
To add to all the good tips you have received, be sure that the cable is not too close to the exhaust. Heat will bake the lubricant. I had a simular problem and replaced the cable and sheath for around $21.00 and the problem went away. Good luck.
I had that problem with a transmissioin shift cable. B&M shifter. The muffler guy that did my exhaust cut the tie wrap holding the cable off the pipe so he could get to some bolts and didn't replace it. It only took a few hundred miles before it was very hard to shift.