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only tried an allen wrench and it is starting to stripout. I found in an old post that i can replace the side cover but it seams a pita to upgrade to a better plug
The drain plug takes a 6mm allen wrench, if you say its starting to slip on you, then try a 1/4 wrench which is .014 bigger then the 6mm wrench. Some times you can epoxy a wrench in the stripped out hex hole to remove the plug. You should have a new plug ready before removing the buggered up one.
worst case, it strips and you take the next size up whether it's metric or sae, and hammer it in to fit then unscrew it. have you tried any liquid wrench? How about hitting it with a hammer with the allen wrench in to try and shock it loose? just a few ideas..
If you can get a drill up in there to drill it out for an easy out, the factory plug is approximately 3/4 of an inch thick. That's worse case scenario.
But I agree, have a new plug. This is the upgraded plug part number. 6E7Z-9C082-A
You can screw this one in with your fingers.
I will try the liquid wrench and the hammer and any other thing someone comes up with till i get it or break it. i was just looking for ideas since it was the first time i changed the hfcm filter.
I had the same problem with mine. You have to take the face of the seperator off or remove the entire filter housing. I chose to remove the face portion and then drill through the brass plug and extract the remanents out. Replace with a steel plug and life is good. Not too bad of a job, the worst part was removing the brass plug as it was stubborn.
why dont you just get a pair of pliers to go around the brass ring and turn it out, I have been using this method for years and have never stripped anything out
why dont you just get a pair of pliers to go around the brass ring and turn it out, I have been using this method for years and have never stripped anything out
Some of the older models don't have anything to grab with pliers--it's just a flush plug.
To all you gents facing this issue of replacing the HFCM drain plug, don't even bother wasting your time and energy any further if the plug is seized into the manifold because you WILL be looking forward to a manifold and plug replacement without fail. The amount of torque needed to break the brass free from the manifold greatly exceeds the strength of the manifold housing itself. That said, you are better off adding a 6C3Z-9B249-A manifold and 6C3Z-9F759-A harness along side your 6E7Z-9C082-A drain plug to make this upgrade a no headache type deal.
And yes, 2006 is the model year Ford deleted the fuel heater from the HFCM and changed the water drain plug to a steel type.
I thought I was in for the manifold replacement, but I was able to break the plug free with some PB Blaster every 10 minutes for a few hours and it finally broke free. I'm still going to install a plug like this:
Should I go ahead and do the manifold and harness as well or is it not worth it? What's the point of the newer manifold?