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Well I have seen in the forum that 2 to 3 inches of play in the steering is pretty common with Ford trucks of all ages while trying to solve my own steering problem. I discovered what was wrong with mine and wanted to post it here as it very well may be many of your trucks problem as well. I tracked my problem to the intermediate shaft between the firewall and steering box. I thought at first that it had wallowed out where the slip joint was but I was wrong. It turns out that when you pull the two pieces apart there is a small flat piece of metal about 1.5 inches long that bows out to provide a snug fit. Its hard to describe and I wish I had taken a picture but I believe if you get that far you will see what I mean. In my case this piece had broken and allowed the play In the steering wheel. I searched for a replacement with no luck but I was able to easily fabricate my own from a feeler gauge of the same thickness and was up and running within an hour. I can't help but feel that this part failure is very common and if you have steering play be sure to check that shaft before replacing the steering box like I did. I hope this helps.
I too have some play in my steering wheel, trying to save some money I bought a rebuilt one and it is as bad as the one with 300,000 miles on it, some rebuilt rite, I have tried adjusting it but no help.
I had teh same problem on my plow truck... Its its last year of life. Motor problems, Trans problems, and more rust then metal... I just welded mine in place. It will help hold up the cab! LOL J/K But it is welded. Just gave it like 4 tacks to lock it in place.
i had always heard that it was wear in the worm gear in the steering box...hmmm this might be a cheaper alternative for sure...i know what i will be checking soon!
Just don't buy a rebuilt one, I don't think they do anything but change seals, mine still has about 2" or 3" of slack, even tho they are guaranteed, it"s a all day job to change.
Just don't buy a rebuilt one, I don't think they do anything but change seals, mine still has about 2" or 3" of slack, even tho they are guaranteed, it"s a all day job to change.
hardly an all day job. at my shop i have done a couple of these, and i can usually have the old one out and the truck back on the road within 2 hours time.
Well I changed my steering box before I stumbled onto the real problem and while it only took 3 hours or so to change it ended up being a waste of money. It is easy to check for the problem I fixed though. I had my wife turn the wheel with the truck off while looking at the rag joint. It hardly moved so I looked a little higher and saw the play where the two pieces of the steering shaft came together. If you find play there I guarantee you have the same problem since that is the only thing in there to break. An old feeler gauge and a half hour is all that it takes.
Thanks for this info. My box has just a tiny bit of play. I can adjust it out but when I grab the intermediate shaft and try to move it I have a surprising bit of play there. When its not freezing out I'm gonna have to pull it apart.
I had teh same problem on my plow truck... Its its last year of life. Motor problems, Trans problems, and more rust then metal... I just welded mine in place. It will help hold up the cab! LOL J/K But it is welded. Just gave it like 4 tacks to lock it in place.
Yes, and when you go about changing the steering box you will cuss at those welds like it's going out of style - I just went through this last week, I did not weld the shafts together but like two years ago I had slipped some aluminum shims in there to take out the slop between the two pieces (cause by a broken flat spring, just like what the OP found in his truck) - well the aluminum and the steel corroded to each other, and as a result the steering shaft would not collapse like it should once disconnected from the steering box. No big deal while you're taking things apart, but while putting the new box in you have to line it up with the steering shaft and force it in its rag joint while at the same time trying to line the box with the bolt holes on the frame - this is majorly annoying as the steering shaft wiggles all over the place, the steering box is pretty darn heavy, and there is almost no visibility as to what position the rag joint is in...
Great knowledge! I've been dealing with play in my steering for a couple years now. A new box helped, but didn't eliminate it. Custom Steering made a MAJOR diff, but i've got about 1.5" that I'd like to eliminate THANKS!
Yes, and when you go about changing the steering box you will cuss at those welds like it's going out of style - I just went through this last week, I did not weld the shafts together but like two years ago I had slipped some aluminum shims in there to take out the slop between the two pieces (cause by a broken flat spring, just like what the OP found in his truck) - well the aluminum and the steel corroded to each other, and as a result the steering shaft would not collapse like it should once disconnected from the steering box. No big deal while you're taking things apart, but while putting the new box in you have to line it up with the steering shaft and force it in its rag joint while at the same time trying to line the box with the bolt holes on the frame - this is majorly annoying as the steering shaft wiggles all over the place, the steering box is pretty darn heavy, and there is almost no visibility as to what position the rag joint is in...
If I plan on letting the truck die come spring why would I change the gear box? As I said its the last year of life for the old rotted out truck. To be honest if I had to do such a thing I would just get another set of rods from junk yard and take the cutting torch to the welded set I have now.
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