https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ete-kit-3.html

The above thread was from 2008. Wondering if anyone has an updated opinion on what currently is the best EGR delete kit available including value for the money


Mark

 

The very BEST is not to delete it at all......

And your noted thread isn't about an EGR delete kit, but a software delete......

This is the one lots are buying now tho.... Bullet Proof EGR Deletes

 

I did the Bullet Proof Diesel delete kit. By looking you cannot tell it's deleted. I also did the external oil cooler from BPD as well. Truck runs incredible now. I would however be sure and get proper tuning for the delete, I recommend DP Tuner

 

If you can't weld your erg cooler yourself, the bpd egr cooler delete looks like a good one. I think it would be the best choice.

 

The BPD delete leaves the EGR valve in place and plugged in, which is best for the stock ECM

 

I just purchased a delete kit from Sinister Diesel. The kit that showed up at the door was actually a River city diesel delete kit with the Sinister diesel name on the packaging.

Don't make the same assumption that I did, the kit I received didn't have the nice shiny chrome and blue billet alluminum as shown on the website or in the mag.

I could have saved $75 and bought the RCD off of ebay for $225.

 

by now the market is infiltrated with EGR kits.......They are prolly all the same
as far as quality since they are in a business thats nothing more than a copycat system......150.00 below,looks like the Sinister one to me
but if you paid for a Sinister and some copycat showed up that is baloney and I would either return it or ask for money back
6.0L 2003-07 6.0 EGR DELETE KIT F250 F350 POWERSTROKE - eBay (item 300506739635 end time Dec-29-10 15:35:05 PST)

 

I'm very happy with my BPD kit. Good honest folks to deal with to.

 

An external oil cooler risk overcooling the oil... unless a real good oil cooler thermostat is installed and working.

 

This is true

 

Just for fun, I checked out the "Bullet Proof" Oil cooler...

The set is $2,200.... BUT... that does not come with a thermostat.

The "cold weather" package is $300 extra, making for $2,500 before shipping.

Another mental note to add to buying used 6.0s... if it comes with an external oil cooler.... watch out if it was used in cold climates without the thermostat (an extra!!!!!).

Think about how destructive it is for your engine to warm up, go up to max. temp (e.g. on a tow uphill), and be hit with oil coming off the cooler at -20F or lower.

If they are going to ask $2,200 for the stock unit, it should come with the thermostat (a $10 part).

No thanks --- the factory cooler and EGR have the designed in attribute to keep operating temperatures closely aligned by design to prevent precisely the dangers of rapid heating / cooling caused by blasts of overcooled oil etc.

I think the stock system is superior.

Bullet Proof Oil Cooler System, 2005-2007 F-Series, Condenser Mount

This aftermarket item is far from "bulletproof" and in fact, introduce additional points of failure --- like a stuck / bad thermostat (or no thermostat).

 

They just came out with there thermostat for the external oil cooler.

I would differ from your opinion that the factory design is superior. It may be engineered to operate off several sources of heat, but heat is still the enemy of engines. It will always be an enemy. When too much cold air is flowing through an air to fluid cooler. A simple fix is to block off a portion of the cooler. This has been a common practice on diesels for quite some time. Of course if your going to pump exhaust gas back into the engine you have enough heat to avoid that. Get rid of that heat source, and maybe an individual would take up and old school practice.

As far as your blast of cold, it seems to be a working and proven set up for the engine coolant. No engine blocks cracking because the thrmostat open up and starts flowing cold coolant.

 

BTW, my opinion differs from your because the OEM part will fail. A critical piece engine funtionality is going to fail, and there's no way to know until the next part in line breaks unless you buy aftermarket gauges. If the factory design is so superior, why must you have to add parts to it to monitor when it fails. An you only know it's failing because of difference in temperatures. So a $300 part, in the center of the enging, requires considerable disassembly is a superior design. Sure.

Like the 6.4 and it's 1400° EGT's. That's not superior design, it's called meeting emmisions regulations, and it's the best they can do, but it's not superior.

 

Consistent operating temperature is a design goal of the 6.0 / 6.4 / 6.7 and most other on road diesels that have to meet tight EPA specs.

That means, not too hot, and not too cold.

That is not achieved with an external cooler --- as the oil is likely to come back with a wildly different temperature depending on the heat loss from the plumbing from the thermostat to the entrance of the return pipe.

The factory system almost ensure that oil is kept at roughly coolant temperature and a bit when it flows through the internal cooler.

(Note: the 6.7 two zone system is IMHO, a real good design).

Where I am, with temperatures that can go to -40 (when I go north a bit), an external cooler can be jammed solid with oil that simply do not flow --- with no way to warm it up unless the operator used a good 5w synthetic with a very low pour point. Not a good idea to risk.

Or, depending on where the thermostat is located (probably at the pipe going to the cooler), wild swings can happen depending on ambient temperature.

May not matter if your climate is 30F to 80F, but it mattters a great deal if you are designing for proper RETURN oil temperature measured where the oil enters the engine from the cooler.

Then there is the risk of having a critical infrastructure (oil lines) running outside the engine, to the front, and back.

Toyota found out about that with their external oil pipe / galley that broke and failed.

That is why engine manufacturers prefer internal oil galleys ideally machined right into the block --- they don't or rarely fail except from clogging.


Add up all this, and you have a mod that when installed, cost $3,000 or more.


I can buy a brand new quality reman motor for $5,000.

 

I can assure you, the oil lines in the BPD kit will be the last thing to fail. I can assure you that. What must be done by these engines to meet EPA regualtions, takes a diesel engine that has long been regarded as a long lasting piece of equipment, to an engine that will likely be outlasted by a gas engine now, who's EGR systems are effective, and don't generae the kind of heat a diesel engine does.

I know of serveral 800,000 mile 7.3L engines. The heat used be these newer engines, is detrimental to the life of equipment. There are no wildly different fluid temps with and exteranl cooler, and if you're really driving in -40° temps, then Ford has different oil recommendations for those operating conditions.

Sure, in the coldest temps I've delt with thios season, I had issues with not-up-to-temp oil, or long warm up times. Issues that can easily be fixed with a block heater, and a piece of cardboard and zip ties.

I don't like the heat introduced by the EGR system, I deleted it. I don't like the failure rate of the OEM cooler. I put in an external cooler. Neither has received the engineering R&D as the OEM pieces, but I went into the changes knowing such. I'm dealing with the gaps in my own way, and I'm rather happy to be rid of the excess heat.