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thats not good to hear. I'll have to write them and tell em go get their asses in gear. This is valuable info they are holding up! Ok well maybe not... but it is interesting.
yes there a little slow but they do get done... i record it on dvr every weekend as i'm a truck driver and not always home... coup[le weeks ago the did all the body work in prep for paint... will NOT be copying the dually fender idea have something a little classer in mind...watching all the current episodes with front clip on should still give you ideas even if they don't get to it by the time you do....I even have some ideas floating around because of my 6.9 idi conversion plans...if you wanna brainstorm
Hi, I have a 77 250 hiboy that I ordered new, 351M 4spd. 4x4. Had a 351CJ in for awhile, till burned a piston!!! Then a 429 best yet!!! Too high of comp for the gas,burned 3 pistons!! Currently doggy 460 lo comp. , low power. Put Dana 60 up front. Thinking of 5.9 Cummins & 6 spd. I also have a donor chassis of 79 supercab lowboy, & would like too swap in the integral power steering to the 77. Is this doable or should I try swap body over frame?? I know would have too shorten it , & the rails in back for box are wider!! What is lesser of 2 evils??? I'll be wachting your swap & see how you make out. Thanks for anyones input.
if the supercab is 4X4 then the swap isn't 2 bad.use the sterring rod from column to box, the box, probably need drop pitman arm due to highboy suspension along with all the steering arms from the supercab... hopefully your dana 60 is a 1977..you'll need to swap out the steering off the top of the left knuckle (driver side) for the later 78-79.. or your looking at custom steering linkage... most decent fab shops could whip up suitable, safe and sturdy peices.. once you locate and mount the steering box it needs reinforcement plates and frame gussets inside the frame...
Here is a link to the episodes of trucks. If so some reason the link doesn't land you in the right spot just type "super dually" in the search box at the top of the home page and the episodes will come up.
There are different exhaust manifolds and turbo configurations that allow you to clear the A/C box but it looks like a bit of effort.
I used to drive a "yard mule" (little semi-tractor with a boxy cab used for moving trailers around in a yard) that had a Cummins 5.9 liter engine in it. The exhaust manifold on that truck was different than the one on my '97 Dodge. The exhaust outlet on the manifold was at the bottom and the turbocharger was directly under the manifold, tucked close to the side of the engine block. So, the exhaust flow made a 90 degree turn straight down out of the manifold into the turbo.
To the OP, if you are wanting 300hp at the wheels, pump mods alone will get you there. If you are trying to decide between auto and manual, I would go with the nv4500 unless you plan on going over 500hp and/or trying for fast 1/4 mile times. If you need any help deciding on upgrading turbo/injectors send me a PM and I will set you up with a cummins genius.
The exhaust manifold has changed several times on the Dodges over the years. You might be able to get the turbo(s) where you want using a different one.
Supposedly you can flip the 12 valve manifold, reroute the drain-back tube and oil supply tube and clear a factory air box.
I boxed the frame only back to the rear hanger of the front spring. I have not had any issues like cracking or frame twisting in over 100K miles since build.
For performance, go with the 911 or best of all, 913 injector pump, #10 TST plate, AFC spring kit, 4K governor spring kit, and Piers 370 injectors. You will be thrilled by the performance.
The NV4500 should come with 1410 joints. I would not go smaller. I had a highboy with small joints and swapped them about every 10K miles.
I like the idea of the 14 bolt, Sterling or Dana 70 rear. I do not see a D60 living long.
If you click on my gallery, I have lots of info on how I did mine. Saves you inventing the wheel yourself.