I have a 1992 ford F250 with a 5.0 EFI V8 with the E40D automatic transmission. I've been having issues with it starting when it's cold out. When it's around 60 degrees or higher it starts and runs fine. But when it's cold out I have bad issues. When I try to start it, it'll fire but stall. I then have to hold the throttle and when I do It misses really terribly and the truck nearly fell apart. the warmer it gets the better it'll run. It'll have a occasional miss here and there and while driving it gets kinda lopey and the vac gauge moves around (it acts like i'm wiggling the throttle pedal but i'm holding it still). Now this is what I've done to it.

New ECT (engine coolant temp sensor_
Complete tune up (plugs, wires, cap , rotor)
New coil
new fuel pump
fuel regulator
Oxygen sensor
TPS sensor
IAC Valve
EGR valve

None of those made a difference AT ALL! And the fuel system pressure was fine too. I DID CHECK IT! IT IS FINE! (I'm always told to check no matter how many times I say I have lol) The most recent thing I tried was ICM and timing. I learned a trick. I had it running and it was idiling rough. I got out unhooked the starter relay wire. I then got back in and held it in start position. The starter obviously didn't kick on so don't get mad haha! When I held it there It ran absolutly fine! As soon as i let off it goes back to being junky. I then checked the timing. I DID remove the SPOUT pin connector. The timing is fine. I plugged the SPOUT back in and observed it. it was jumping around a lot! PLUS! I must mention that when the SPOUT is disconnected, it still runs like crap and the timing doesn't adjust (Obviously) So I'm trying to figure out what this all is. I was thinking the PIP sensor (or stator, hall effect sensor. Whatever you wanna call it) or my PCM. Oh and by the way. It's the type with the module on the fender. I'm stumped because of the whole temperature thing. I would think that if it's the PIP it would do it constantly? Plus I know the PIP runs the tach and it works fine as well. I checked for codes and there weren't any and the check engine light never comes on. One more thing.. Sometimes while it runs like hell, I'll hold the pedal and it'll pretty much die but regain power all without moving the pedal. And sometimes I get lucky and hold it at aboyut 1500 RPM and out of nowhere it'll kick right out of it's misfiring and run fine. But recently it goes right back into the misfire after a few minutes. Can anyone help or direct me to a better place?

 

No codes meaning no response from the computer or you got the 11 or 111 "all clear" codes for both banks of memory?

 

when you checked the timing what was it at? Also what was your fuel pressure both with KOEO and KOER tests? also when you say you pulled codes are you using a code reader, having an auto parts place do it or using the paper clip method?

if the timing wont adjust with the spout removed and the bolt loosened to allow movement of the dizzy then perhaps it is bad. why not swing by a pick an pull and grab one. shouldnt cost more then $10/$15 and would be a good test. just mark where yours currently sits when motor is at TDC. chalk the block so you can line up the rotor and such when stabbing the replacement in.

 

The timing was at 10 degrees just like it said on the under hood sticker. I should mention that I did loosen the bolt and advanced it a small bit but put it back where it originally was. And yes I did both test for the fuel pressure. And for the codes, I did the jumper wire thing and watched it through the check engine light. I did get the 111 code which was system pass. At one point I had one 512 and a 636 code. But when I did those codes the battery was very low from cranking. Ever since then I never got them again. The 512 happened when I had to wait 10 seconds and restart it for the KOEO test. But I always got the 111 code so I guess that's good.

 

well generally if there is an electrical issue with the dizzy like a bad PIP it will throw a code. but i would still try a junk yard dizzy. have you checked for vacum leaks, i could see this since once its warm out the seals/gaskets are conforming better then if its cold.

fuel pressure should be 39-42psi

 

I've checked for vac leaks and I have a vac gauge. It's always been around 20 on it. When it runs like crap, it drops about 5 on vac pressure. I'm gonna check again. It's just odd that when I hold it in start it works fine. I was told that when it's in start mode it ignores the PCM timing commands so that's why I tried. But when I pull the SPOUT I figured it'd do the same. It still runs crappy with SPOUT off though. I don't know if the ICM could do that? I thought about advancing the timing. I was told somewhere that I should advance it to 20 degrees but I can't remember if it was really 20. I'm searching for that post now.

 

no, maybe 10 or 12* with spot disconnected. when you check timing with the spout out it shouldnt bounce around much.