I saw lots of 7.3's when I was looking around online for the 6.9. The cavitation issue decided it for me. Plus I read what happened to Dave S and how he eventually went back to the 6.9. Of course his situation was different as he was dealing with rebuilds.

 

Correct. I won't buy a used unknown history 7.3, ever.

 

Looks like I might be closing on this engine then. I need to sleep now. Better pop an Ambien methinks or I won't be getting a lot of sleep.

 

not here. everyone wants the 7.3l. i know the advantages of the 6.9l but most people who just get into diesels want c.i.'s without knowing the difference between the engines.

 

Rockers and glow plugs updated for 87.

86 and back were the original 6.9 rockers and old style spade glow plug system.

Pictures in post 7 show the ZD 9 glow plug connectors, new style system.

 

Dave said it.................. that settles it.

I know it's a gamble because I haven't seen it running. The seller says she did see it running before it was pulled and claims it ran good at 190,000. (of course she would say that, she wants to sell it) Its been sitting for 5 months. Shes asking $350. Looks rough but it is 23 years old after all. I suppose I could go for a rebuild on it but time and money are in short supply. If I did buy it I would replace the rocker gaskets, pumps etc.
Are my IP and injectors compatible with it?



I will clean it up and probably paint it but that's purely cosmetic I know and the psychological effect will probably make me feel good about it but is there anything within reasonable cost that I should consider doing while its pulled short of a complete rebuild?

 

You will be able to swap any of the parts except the glow plugs.

You can even swap the glow plugs if you swap the entire system or go manual control glow plugs.

While the engine is out, front and rear main seals, any gasket that looks like it is leaking would be a good idea.

I would pull the glow plugs and at least bar the engine over before I paid for it.

Since it also ran a turbo, it might be a good idea to block the lower radiator hose, heater hoses and fill it up with water.
If the water level drops, you may need to do head gaskets.

It would take a little work to get it strapped down, fuel, coolant and power to the engine so it could be fired, but it could give you an idea of what needs done and if it will run for sure.

And who knows, the turbo, down pipe and air box may be at the sellers place somewhere, which could be had for a few dollars more.

 

I'm already on a manual system. I prefer that system and since I just bought a new set of Beru Spades that will save me $80



Yeah I thought of that too. Prevention is better than cure.

What would that tell me apart from the obvious, ie; that its not seized or hydro-locked?

Never thought of that.


Not sure that's gonna happen though it would be nice to see it run.

The original owner took the turbo before the present seller got possession.
Your worth your weight in gold Dave. Thanks for taking the time on this.

 

Well that's just what Dave is suggesting that you check - you most certainly do not want an engine that does not turn over.

Also, while you have everything out, replace the o-rings and gaskets on the oil cooler!!! This is probably the single thing that can ruin your entire week in a matter of minutes, so launch a preemptive strike against it.

 

I don't understand, what on my list isn't necessary to make that specific turbo work? You would need everything on that list to make a Banks turbo properly work (with an exception of the gauges if you want to risk melting a piston or two). I understand about the used turbo thing but there are commonly more than 1 pieces missing depending on the intelligence of the seller. They can get quite expensive (especially with shipping) at times, I'm just saying.

 

First picture in group two has the Banks CDR relocate and hose.

Never got a shot of the oil lines and oil pressure sensor or the oil return lines, so that is questionable.

Turbo mount, not sure again.

Turbo, intake pressure chamber, air cleaner and down pipe, need those for sure.

 

Well the intake you can fab on your own (not the pressure chamber obviously), same with the exhaust after the downpipe. CDR can be replaced with an RDT plumbed into the exhaust too. Stuff like that, but you are right that there are many specific parts that are needed and there is no way around it... And yea, ultimately we're all at the mercy of the seller's knowledge of IDI turbo systems when it comes to buying a used one.

 

It would need a flywheel too................ unless there's some other way of cranking it without one.

 

This is raising a red flag for me.Or maybe I'm not understanding what your saying?

Are you saying that we are at the mercy of the sellers knowledge when buying a used motor? Or that we are at their mercy when buying a used turbo?

If its the first then the PO,s lack of knowledge may have run it consistently over boost and damaged the piston crows and head gear. Turning it over wont tell me that story. I wont be able to start it till I get the flywheel on it and when I get to that stage I will already have bought it so it will be a bit late down the line to discover the horrible truth that its had its guts ripped up due to higher turbo boosts.

I have no knowledge of turbos so I am at the mercy of you guys superior knowledge.

If its the second then that doesn't concern me cause I wont be running a turbo since its max hauling weight will probably never exceed 2000lbs in the bed. ( I drive for economy most of the time)

The seller informed me that the motor was surplus to requirements because the truck was bought for its Tranny. She said she didn't think the turbo was on it for very long but the condition of the pipes suggests otherwise to me, unless they get that way pretty quickly? Its been sitting for 5 months so I suppose surface rust is going to form as its been sitting in a barn.

The seller also claims she drove the truck for ten miles and "it ran great and strong with no smoke" Apparently the PO wanted the turbo back after the motor was pulled so I'm asking myself "Why didn't he take the pipes too?" Maybe I'm being overly cautious but short of actually pulling the heads and looking at the cylinders and piston crowns and valves I'm pretty much in the dark.

 

At the age and unknown history the engine's heads would be removed, inspected, and installed with studs and new head gaskets.
Also for $300 it's not that big of a gamble in this day in age. You could sell the heads or crank and likely make money or scrap it and get back over $100.
If your looking for a more of a guarantee your going to pay a lot more than $300, more like 1200 in these parts.