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Powerstrokehelp Coolant Flush Procedure

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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Powerstrokehelp Coolant Flush Procedure

What do you guys think of Bill's coolant flush procedure? Do you see any issues?

YouTube - 6.0 SYSTEM FLUSH
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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ya he is a tard!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by plomerostroker
ya he is a tard!
I have only one good thing to say about bill....
he atleast posted a reply to a thread....
other then that yup what he said.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 01:09 AM
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Bill gave "a" reply to "a" thread...


its not much.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 05:00 AM
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I don't know why I even wasted my time watching this.......I guess I needed an early morning laugh.

FWIW--I think flush procedure is rather incomplete although I know it's for "video" purposes.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I don't know why I even wasted my time watching this.......I guess I needed an early morning laugh.

FWIW--I think flush procedure is rather incomplete although I know it's for "video" purposes.
What's incomplete about it? Obviously some of his other video's have things that are incomplete, wrong, or he's trying to sell something, but what's wrong with this procedure?

Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by hank89
What's incomplete about it? Obviously some of his other video's have things that are incomplete, wrong, or he's trying to sell something, but what's wrong with this procedure?

Thanks!
There are MUCH better flush procedures posted here in the 6.0 forum than that video not to mention that you get a LOT better drain/flush on the radiator by dropping the lower radiator hose where crap collects that will NOT come out of the petcock. Stick a hose in it and let it run sounds like a Chevy trick, not to mention that the thermostat will never open with tap water running in it.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cheezit
I have only one good thing to say about bill....
he atleast posted a reply to a thread....
other then that yup what he said.
Cheezit,
Does your shop use Distilled water for flushing and/or distilled water?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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ratchet wrenches make him happy..... LMAO
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles minimum, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs. Some trucks have bolts. Mine had studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.

Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles minimum, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs. Some trucks have bolts. Mine had studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.

Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. fficeffice" /><O></O>
<O></O>
Hey thank you for this write up! very complete! I didn't think about the thermostat not opening up if you continuously ran tap water through it.

About the VC-9: Does the dealership use this when they change the coolant? My EOT vs. ECT looks good...I'm concerned the VC-9 may loosen crap up and get stuck in the oil cooler. What do you think?

And what are your thoughts on using the ELC everyone is talking about in lieu of the Ford Gold? (I've got about 10 months left on my 5/100,000)

THANKS!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Troy Buenger
Cheezit,
Does your shop use Distilled water for flushing and/or distilled water?
if thats what the customer wants then sure you as the customer would have to either supply it or buy it from our parts dept. I suggest supply it before hand.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hank89
Hey thank you for this write up! very complete! I didn't think about the thermostat not opening up if you continuously ran tap water through it.

About the VC-9: Does the dealership use this when they change the coolant? My EOT vs. ECT looks good...I'm concerned the VC-9 may loosen crap up and get stuck in the oil cooler. What do you think?

And what are your thoughts on using the ELC everyone is talking about in lieu of the Ford Gold? (I've got about 10 months left on my 5/100,000)

THANKS!
That is always a possibilty however the vc-9 is an iron cleaner that is needed. I did it and my dealer also does it but as with anything else sometimes things go awry.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by hank89
Hey thank you for this write up! very complete! I didn't think about the thermostat not opening up if you continuously ran tap water through it.
I knew Mike would come through--hit him with some reps for the good writeup.

Originally Posted by hank89
About the VC-9: Does the dealership use this when they change the coolant? My EOT vs. ECT looks good...I'm concerned the VC-9 may loosen crap up and get stuck in the oil cooler. What do you think?
I know someone that had this happen after changing oil coolers. It would be a concern of mine too but I don't know to what degree the VC-9 actually dissolves or just loosens the offensive particles. It would seem that if your cooler was functioning properly, a flush sooner rather than later would have a chance to actually get in and get rid of the gunk before it had a chance to "seal" any passages. The coolant by design coats the metal to protect it, but it seems to "over protect".

Originally Posted by hank89
And what are your thoughts on using the ELC everyone is talking about in lieu of the Ford Gold? (I've got about 10 months left on my 5/100,000)

THANKS!
The ELC seems to be working for a lot of folks, including International. It may be too early in the game to tell how it's going to work on the 6.0, but IMHO it's a good choice. Ford CANNOT require you to use a product for warranty or deny you warranty unless they supply that product to you at NO CHARGE.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I knew Mike would come through--hit him with some reps for the good writeup.



I know someone that had this happen after changing oil coolers. It would be a concern of mine too but I don't know to what degree the VC-9 actually dissolves or just loosens the offensive particles. It would seem that if your cooler was functioning properly, a flush sooner rather than later would have a chance to actually get in and get rid of the gunk before it had a chance to "seal" any passages. The coolant by design coats the metal to protect it, but it seems to "over protect".


The ELC seems to be working for a lot of folks, including International. It may be too early in the game to tell how it's going to work on the 6.0, but IMHO it's a good choice. Ford CANNOT require you to use a product for warranty or deny you warranty unless they supply that product to you at NO CHARGE.
A good rule of thumb, if your changing out coolers do the flush first.
 
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