Powerstrokehelp Coolant Flush Procedure
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
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Powerstrokehelp Coolant Flush Procedure
What do you guys think of Bill's coolant flush procedure? Do you see any issues?
YouTube - 6.0 SYSTEM FLUSH
YouTube - 6.0 SYSTEM FLUSH
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I don't know why I even wasted my time watching this.......I guess I needed an early morning laugh.
FWIW--I think flush procedure is rather incomplete although I know it's for "video" purposes.
FWIW--I think flush procedure is rather incomplete although I know it's for "video" purposes.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 129
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Thanks!
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
There are MUCH better flush procedures posted here in the 6.0 forum than that video not to mention that you get a LOT better drain/flush on the radiator by dropping the lower radiator hose where crap collects that will NOT come out of the petcock. Stick a hose in it and let it run sounds like a Chevy trick, not to mention that the thermostat will never open with tap water running in it.
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Lead Driver
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From: The Great State of Texas
Does your shop use Distilled water for flushing and/or distilled water?
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles minimum, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs. Some trucks have bolts. Mine had studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty.
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles minimum, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs. Some trucks have bolts. Mine had studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles minimum, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs. Some trucks have bolts. Mine had studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. ffice
ffice" /><O
></O>
<O></O>
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles minimum, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs. Some trucks have bolts. Mine had studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. ffice
ffice" /><O></O><O
></O>About the VC-9: Does the dealership use this when they change the coolant? My EOT vs. ECT looks good...I'm concerned the VC-9 may loosen crap up and get stuck in the oil cooler. What do you think?
And what are your thoughts on using the ELC everyone is talking about in lieu of the Ford Gold? (I've got about 10 months left on my 5/100,000)
THANKS!
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
if thats what the customer wants then sure you as the customer would have to either supply it or buy it from our parts dept. I suggest supply it before hand.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
Hey thank you for this write up! very complete! I didn't think about the thermostat not opening up if you continuously ran tap water through it.
About the VC-9: Does the dealership use this when they change the coolant? My EOT vs. ECT looks good...I'm concerned the VC-9 may loosen crap up and get stuck in the oil cooler. What do you think?
And what are your thoughts on using the ELC everyone is talking about in lieu of the Ford Gold? (I've got about 10 months left on my 5/100,000)
THANKS!
About the VC-9: Does the dealership use this when they change the coolant? My EOT vs. ECT looks good...I'm concerned the VC-9 may loosen crap up and get stuck in the oil cooler. What do you think?
And what are your thoughts on using the ELC everyone is talking about in lieu of the Ford Gold? (I've got about 10 months left on my 5/100,000)
THANKS!
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
The ELC seems to be working for a lot of folks, including International. It may be too early in the game to tell how it's going to work on the 6.0, but IMHO it's a good choice. Ford CANNOT require you to use a product for warranty or deny you warranty unless they supply that product to you at NO CHARGE.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
I knew Mike would come through--hit him with some reps for the good writeup.
I know someone that had this happen after changing oil coolers. It would be a concern of mine too but I don't know to what degree the VC-9 actually dissolves or just loosens the offensive particles. It would seem that if your cooler was functioning properly, a flush sooner rather than later would have a chance to actually get in and get rid of the gunk before it had a chance to "seal" any passages. The coolant by design coats the metal to protect it, but it seems to "over protect".
The ELC seems to be working for a lot of folks, including International. It may be too early in the game to tell how it's going to work on the 6.0, but IMHO it's a good choice. Ford CANNOT require you to use a product for warranty or deny you warranty unless they supply that product to you at NO CHARGE.
I know someone that had this happen after changing oil coolers. It would be a concern of mine too but I don't know to what degree the VC-9 actually dissolves or just loosens the offensive particles. It would seem that if your cooler was functioning properly, a flush sooner rather than later would have a chance to actually get in and get rid of the gunk before it had a chance to "seal" any passages. The coolant by design coats the metal to protect it, but it seems to "over protect".
The ELC seems to be working for a lot of folks, including International. It may be too early in the game to tell how it's going to work on the 6.0, but IMHO it's a good choice. Ford CANNOT require you to use a product for warranty or deny you warranty unless they supply that product to you at NO CHARGE.