Put another alternator on and the battery light has gone away. If it comes back will try a Motorcraft unit and see if that gets better results. They're even cheaper than the Autozone lifetime-warrantied units.

 

Motorcraft does not mean it is the right one.

If it is priced below the Autozone, I am willing to bet you do not have the right part number for your truck.

You have to have the specific Part Number for your vehicle that points to a diesel truck grade alternator.

Pick up the diesel truck grade alternator, weigh it. Compare it with your current one, compare it with a "look a like" Motorcraft car grade alternator. Or with a 200A car grade alternator.

Want a real compare? Pick up a Mitsubishi ambulance grade alternator --- think it is only rated for 200Amp.

Have fun....

Bad alternator can blow FICMs, and kill batteries.

Suit yourself.


I was very lucky that the aftermarket that was installed by the previous owner (which lasted less than a year) did not blow my FICM or battery before it petered out.

 

Nothing blown so far, 3rd alternator in a year, don't even know what a FICM is...is it pronounced 'fick-um' or 'fyke-um'...if all else fails, I guess I can always trade it for a Mitsubishi ambulance...suit myself.

 

I'm a BIG OEM proponent, but not for Motorcraft alternators. My daughters escape has been through 3 in less than 100K/2yrs and I can give you countless cases of other failures on that model. There are a couple of alternator repair shops here that make a living on motorcraft alternators (according to them). A QUALITY alternative would be nice.

 

LOL--I don't know the "proper" pronunciation of it but I think most people say "Fee-come".

FICM= fuel injector control module aka injector driver module. Similar to an electronic distributor but much more complex. It's the finned aluminum box that sits on top of the driver side valve cover under the overflow bottle.

 

If you are talking about car grade yes.

If you are trying to help someone online find a diesel truck grade alternator, the easiest way is to tell them to get a factory PN for their model and stick to it ---- and not get conned by the parts counter guy handing them something else that is "Motorcraft" and "will fit" that is "higher rated".

I went the route of a custom built for exactly the same reason.

Completely agree with QUALITY replacements, but those are usually $$$ and not widely distributed (or at least not in stock).

I wish there is a way for me to tell someone how to find and tell a diesel truck grade alternator from a car grade.

For one... the diesel truck grade part is 100% heavier... but there are more issues.

 

Well thanks to all for the good in-depth comments and suggests. Solved for now.

 

Keep us posted.