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I was recently informed by a family member who owns a F-250 of the dreaded “death wobble”. He asked me if I could design a new track bar for him. This is what I came up with. Let me know what you guys think.
Design attributes:
-Both link-bar pivot points same as stock locations.
-Machined uniball cup, pressed into lower axle mount, including a C-clip
-.875” uniball-1.375” ball dia, at the axle mount, with Hi-miss spacers.
-Axle mount end double sheared for strength and to prevent leverage movement
-1.00” Heim joint- 1.875 ball, at the frame, with isolators to keep the link-bar vertical
Question for the guys with lift kits on their trucks;
Does your kit relocate the frame mount back to the stock location?
I was recently informed by a family member who owns a F-250 of the dreaded “death wobble”. He asked me if I could design a new track bar for him. This is what I came up with. Let me know what you guys think.
Design attributes:
-Both link-bar pivot points same as stock locations.
-Machined uniball cup, pressed into lower axle mount, including a C-clip
-.875” uniball-1.375” ball dia, at the axle mount, with Hi-miss spacers.
-Axle mount end double sheared for strength and to prevent leverage movement
-1.00” Heim joint- 1.875 ball, at the frame, with isolators to keep the link-bar vertical
Question for the guys with lift kits on their trucks;
Does your kit relocate the frame mount back to the stock location?
I think you may have a good start but i think your might be missing more of an ability to provide enough "vertical" movement. The lower joint would seem to be a bit compromised during high axle articulation. I would also question the overall strength of the forked track bar end. Many don't realize the mass load and weight that is needed to be controlled at these points.
Does your kit relocate the frame mount back to the stock location?
Yes, with most kits (they either include or recomend depending on the quality, manufacturer or lift height) the drop bracket replaces the OEM upper bracket or a adj. bar is used.
Keep up with the design and continue your research. let us know your advancements.
I think you may have a good start but i think your might be missing more of an ability to provide enough "vertical" movement. The lower joint would seem to be a bit compromised during high axle articulation.
I'm sure 40* would be enough for a stock truck correct? I could actually get more articulation if I move the uniball up from the stock location slightly, gaining some clearance from the stock mount. If someone needs more, then I'll just have to use a vertical hiem above the stock location like the WC kit.
I would also question the overall strength of the forked track bar end. Many don't realize the mass load and weight that is needed to be controlled at these points.
Trust me 1/4" 4130, double shear, and gusseted, will be plenty strong.
Based on the picture above seems like bumpsteer would be a issue. The drag link and trac bar should be parallel right? Having different angles will cause adverse reactions during suspension cycles. Since the different angles make the bars move independantly of each other instead of in the same range of motion. Then again I'm not a engineer just a backyard fabricator.
Based on the picture above seems like bumpsteer would be a issue. The drag link and trac bar should be parallel right? Having different angles will cause adverse reactions during suspension cycles. Since the different angles make the bars move independantly of each other instead of in the same range of motion. Then again I'm not a engineer just a backyard fabricator.
The drag link is not even shown in the picture. The picture only shows the range of motion of the trac-bar. Also I want to clear something up because I hear this alot, people say "the drag link and trac bar should be parallel", this is not technically correct. It's the imaginary lines drawn between the center of each links pivot points that needs to be parallel to each other. The only thing that matters are the pivot points not the bars/ links themselves.
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Correct.
Most of us use the word parallel to reference the stock system and when lifted try to achieve similar results as we know when they are parallel or close to it our bump steer will be minimized or corrected.
Here's my final design before building a prototype. I made some minor changes to beef it up a little. Still not sure if it is necessary to have a bend in the bar or not, but that can be easily changed.
Looks good! I just built a custom bar myself for my truck. Yes you will need a bend in it like you have in the last pic, to clear the engine "craddle" part of the frame. I used an OEM ball joint on the pass side but flipped it and it points upwards instead of down and has worked great. Not as fancy as yours, but has corrected 100% of my bumpsteer. Please keep us posted.
Update, all the parts are machined and ready. I was able to fit a bigger uniball at the axle mount than I originally planned. I've just been waiting on my relative to find the time to have me install it.
I'm also looking for someone with a non-lifted truck, with wobble problems, to try my kit on too. If your around the Riverside CA area send me a PM.