Alternator upgrade?
#31
12-14-2010, 01:19 PM
I think I understand, but having very big positive cables and even bigger negative cables is still good, right?
It is the 7.3 diesel engine. The batteries were only 3 years old, but when it started getting around freezing temperatures outside they decided to go foo-foo on me. So I replaced them with a pair of brand new Duralast Gold batteries - they were made just last month (says 11/10 on them) and they are 850CCA each. The starter itself looks very old, and from what I have read on the diesel forums these starters were never too great even when new - there is an improved heavy-duty design now that has a giant gearbox in it, and if I am understanding this all correct it is because of that gearbox that these new-type starters takes less power to work while at the same time cranking the engine much faster. So in a few weeks I will be getting such a starter, because winter will only get worse and as I travel there is usually not a place to plug my engine heater in like I do when at home.
It is the 7.3 diesel engine. The batteries were only 3 years old, but when it started getting around freezing temperatures outside they decided to go foo-foo on me. So I replaced them with a pair of brand new Duralast Gold batteries - they were made just last month (says 11/10 on them) and they are 850CCA each. The starter itself looks very old, and from what I have read on the diesel forums these starters were never too great even when new - there is an improved heavy-duty design now that has a giant gearbox in it, and if I am understanding this all correct it is because of that gearbox that these new-type starters takes less power to work while at the same time cranking the engine much faster. So in a few weeks I will be getting such a starter, because winter will only get worse and as I travel there is usually not a place to plug my engine heater in like I do when at home.
#32
12-14-2010, 02:09 PM
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Oh, but I do have the 130-amp alternator! I also have four driving lights (55w each, soon to be replaced with 130W KCs), also it being a dually I have lights on top of the cab plus some on the rear fenders and in the middle of the bed under the tailgate. I also have a very powerful brake controller (my ex used to haul cars with a long trailer that hooks up to the truck like 18-wheelers do). And inside the cab there is a device that takes battery/alternator power and makes it into the kind of electricity that you have at home, this is for plugging in a laptop and a cell-phone charger and other things like that.
However, you are correct in that I do not have a 1500W stereo, nor do I plan on ever having one installed - just a normal radio with four speakers is plenty enough for me
However, you are correct in that I do not have a 1500W stereo, nor do I plan on ever having one installed - just a normal radio with four speakers is plenty enough for me
#33
12-14-2010, 08:41 PM
I discovered those terminals about a year ago and will never buy anything else now. Upgrading from the 65amp to the 130amp 3G was the best thing I have done for my truck, solved the battery eating problem also.
#34
12-15-2010, 07:21 AM
. I'd just prefer to get one oriented correctly (particularly since I'd like to buy new rather than rebuilt) but if I source used, I'd split it open & rotate it in a heartbeat.
#37
12-15-2010, 03:16 PM
If you're refering to my last post i just saw that they were talking about clocking position on alternators so I posted the RJM page with all clocking positions on it... thought it would be of some use without reading the posts completely...
#38
12-15-2010, 03:44 PM
#39
12-15-2010, 08:11 PM
#40
12-16-2010, 02:48 AM
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Well, I am not sure how much sense this will make, but if the alternator bolts to the right side of the engine in the exact position as you have it in that picture, then I think it may be possible to have the plug facing up and towards the engine (pretty much pointing at the middle of the hood), but also it could be out the side and away from the engine (pointing straight at the right-side fender). However, if the alternator bolts straight down on top of the engine, then I think only one "clocking" position would make sense, and that is with the plug facing straight up towards the hood - which would in fact be our fender-facing position the case of the side-mounted alternator setup, only rotated 90 degrees to the left. Now, how can you determine which of these is what hour on the clock, I have no idea - I guess up and towards the middle of the hood would be 10 o'clock, out the side and towards the fender would be 3 o'clock, and straight up would obviously be 12 o'clock?
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