I've had it. I've done it all. And then did it again.

As some of you may remember, I've been having some really odd carb problems. I have test different Holley 1960's(very similar to the 1904, but the 1960 was OEM in '56) on two DIFFERENT engines that seem to be in perfect running order. Both carbs show the same EXACT symptoms on both engines.

The carbs will not allow the engine to run when the choke is fully opened.



What I want now is simply if there is anyone out there with a 223 that they use daily that they ABSOLUTELY KNOW is in perfect running order and is a very predictably good running motor--to test one of my carbs on their motor so they can tell me if they are or are not experiencing this issue.

Two 223's isn't enough.

I would simply ship it to you(and maybe throw in a 5) and ask you to throw it on your engine and tell me how it reacts at idle. Then you take it off, ship it back(paid also by me) and move on with your life. Easy as that.

I would ask someone to lend me their carb that is also running on a truck they know to be predictably a good running truck, but I don't think anyone would be interested. If you are, give me a holler.

I'm not looking to buy, if I had the money, I would. I'm really determined to figure out what's wrong with mine....

Thank you all.

 

Sorry I can't help test the carb, but here is something that I am sure you have already addressed if not you may want to try. If I am not mistaken you have to "adjust" the choke linkage so that the choke does NOT completely close. I think it is like an 1/8 inch drill bit that should slide between plate and casting. This allows some air to flow. Just throwing this out there if it runs well otherwise.

Hope this helps,
Paul

My bad read fully open as fully closed, sorry.......

 

No. But I'd love to test my engine on your carb,
.
I have a 223 6 out of a 51 f1 that I need to test run to see if its ok, turns over fine and has good compression (cold). Need carb and to hook up plug wires to run.

 

So, it wont idle with the choke open? but runs fine with the choke closed and runs fine when you give it some gas?

 

Sure. But don't break my carb with a sledge hammer when it frustrates you because it doesn't run correctly.

Although that's the point of this test I guess--to see how it runs on anothers motor. I'll send a PM with more info later tonight, I have somewhere to be right now and can't finish it now.
Basically, yes. It runs a little rich, but that's because I can't tune the carb properly. You can't do any real tuning until you can get it warm and running with open choke, and I can't. But other than that......as long as the choke is closed a certain amount, it will run great.

The weird thing is that it drops off like a cliff. At one point of choke adjustment it purrs, but if you simply push the choke open just a NATS ***, and I mean a NATS *** further open, then the truck will immediately start to die, push it a tad further and it will immediately die. There is basically no graduation. It's either running or dead.

 

Well I had this trouble with my 52 before. 1904s are a pain in the @$$ to work on and with they are so touchy. Im not sure about what you have tried, but ill take a stab at it, make sure your idle mixture screw is not all the way in and if it is back it out two complete turns. If that does not do it then make sure your Idle adjustment screw is not backed off real far. If that does not do it then you most likely have something plugged up but check these two things before you ship it off and let us know if this helps

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, except that it did the same on another engine? So it would have to be a vacuum leak on the carb.

Do these have a power valve in the bottom of the bowl assembly? There are problems with the newer PV's in rebuild kits being taller than the originals, and preventing the bowl from seating on the throttle section. Using two gaskets between the sections will usually prevent this.

Edit: I guess not; is the carb similar to this? http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/m..._IHC_53B8.html

Still sounds like a vacuum problem.

 

It's not a 1904, it's a 1960. But there's a catch, I'll get to that at the end of my post.

Everything you've said is stuff I tried MONTHS ago. I am in the later stages by now, and still nowhere. Thank you very much for your input though.
That carb in the picture is a 1960 I believe and looks identical to my carb.
No way there is a vacuum leak in the engine, I spent the last two months disproving that, and I am 99% sure that there is no vac leak below the carb. (however I have no clue on how to test for the correct vacuum above the carb)




About the situation if anyone cares: The carburetor used standard in 1956 for the 223ci was a "Holley 1960". I have 3 different Holley's off of three different 223's. Two of them are absolutely without a doubt 1960's. The other is absolutely without a doubt a 1904 from a ~60-61 falcon.

This is where things got funny about 5 days ago.

The 1904 was the last carb I had to test. It had been sitting for 15 years. I put fuel in it(and it leaked like hell) and it RAN LIKE THE WIND. this carb showed NONE of the symptoms that my 1960's show.


Consensus: The 1904 will--on BOTH engines--run properly, and let the engine run FLAWLESSLY at idle with FULL OPEN choke.

BOTH engines with BOTH of the 1960's won't run with less than at least half choke. PERIOD.


That tells me(along with a vacuum gauge) that the engines are just fine...........the problem is in the carbs.



But how can two carbs show the exact same SINGULAR sypmtom?

Thank you for reading.

 

I don't mean to be smarty pants, but did you rebuild both of the 1960's? If so, it's possible that either the rebuild kits are both faulty, or you made the same mistake assembling them. There are lots of problems with rebuild kit quality, for reasons you can guess... Did you see a thread about 6 months ago about the float needle seats? Poorly drilled, off center, with burrs, they leaked like sieves.

 

Oh, you find it funny too??? How two rebuilt carbs run worse than another carb that hasn't been touched for 15 years and leaked like hell when first tested(I have since fixed the leak).
Yeah, that shocked me too.....


Both 1960's have been rebuilt 3 times each. The one that was professionally rebuilt by a real guru was done 4. He used what he knows as one of the best kits available that he selects each part to ensure it's correct.

I can see what you are saying about my personal error......but after I had someone else do the work(and the problem persist), then I knew it wasn't me.


These carbs are giving my more trouble than anything ever. Women. Cars. Family. Work. School.

I have troubleshooted them to the end of the Earth....That's really why I would really like to find someone with a good running 223 of their own to let ME borrow THEIR carb to test on my engine......That would really progress me somewhere.

I also wish my town had better swap meets, I would just go pick up a couple more 1960's to rebuild and test them out.....



How could I test any vitals ABOVE the carb?

 

You know, my carb (a 94) wasn't real bad but I bought a different used one off eBay for $30, and was astounded at how much better it worked. Some carbs are just not worth messing with. Save these for parts and move on...

 

why dont you just use the 1904?

 

Let me try this again...I am not familar with this carb so I will just make a suggestion. Like Albuq F1 said is it possible there is a vacuum leek at the throttle shaft? Some other carbs have this issue not sure if this model does.

Paul

 

I always got a can of starting fluid and sprayed around where i thought it was leaking and if the engine got excited then i pinpointed it

 

That's basically my next and last plan. But finding some 1960's just laying around at a swap here in Bako is not an easy task.

Heck, I actually found another '56 while at work today. Even came with a 223.......but that was swapped by the owner for a 350 in '76....so no luck there.
Yeah, I've heard of that too, but this is what I did to test for leaksVVVVV
Actually I've done that twice. Found nothing so far.


It's time for new carbs, but I don't have the money to buy just any carb, I'd like to actually find a good deal. And better yet I'd really like to find 3-4 of them to rebuild and test.....one has to work right............right?