Can't get hubs out!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 23
From: Tucson
Can't get hubs out!
Working on a 95 F250 to do the balljoints but can't get the hubs out. Took the dust cap off, the retaining clip and am at the point where it should just "slide out" but it ain't movin. Barely any movement in or out. Help!!!
Last edited by ztodd377; Dec 9, 2010 at 10:52 PM. Reason: Spelling
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 23
From: Tucson
Good call. Completely forgot about that one. Got it goin now. Now I can't get the driver side spindle to separate from the knuckle. Pass side came off but this one ain't budgin. Any ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: Elkhorn, WI
Bfh lol. That's how mine were. On one side the ball joints were bad and the slop freed up the knuckle but the other side they were still ok so it was a major pain to get off. You could try heating it up and using pb blaster but be careful because the grease and brake lines
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 0
From: West Texas
The proper tool for that is a thing that screws on to the spindle with one end and onto a slide hammer on the other. If you try beating it with a hammer or taking it off with a chisel then you will ruin it. Napa sells that tool. It's a universal spindle puller.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 23
From: Tucson
Meineke told this guy that his drag link and tie rod needed to be replaced. How often does this occur? I can understand changing the joints where they attach to the knuckle and but I'm not so sure about changing out the drag link and tie rod. Thoughts?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 0
From: West Texas
The drag link is about the most common one of them to go bad in my experience. Which is mostly alignments and abs systems on Fords. I wouldn't let meineke do it though. They are way over priced. They are also flat rate everywhere I know. That means it's possible they look for crap that is wrong.
Just check them yourself. With the engine off have someone else wiggle the steering wheel while you watch the joints. If they move, they are bad.
Just check them yourself. With the engine off have someone else wiggle the steering wheel while you watch the joints. If they move, they are bad.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 23
From: Tucson
So the actual drag link goes bad or just the joints? We're doing it instead of meineke. I just don't want to have to replace what's basically just a metal bar if only the joints need it unless the joints aren't removable and u have to replace the whole thing as a whole. The passenger side hub body is also destroyed. The outer part of the body is ripped away from the inner part that slides onto the axle shaft. Anyone know where we can get a new hub body?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 0
From: West Texas
The drag link has one joint on it that doesn't come off. The one on the pitman arm end usually. Unless you got a chevy or a D 60! It connects the pitman arm to the right steering knuckle/ tie rod end. The adjuster on it is what you use to center your steering wheel on a dana 60. On the F250 you set toe on each wheel and they control the wheel centering. So you will need to get the toe set once you replace it again. Make sure you tell them JUST A TOE ALIGN. It's cheaper according to flat rate manuals and shops will not tell you this.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 23
From: Tucson
Got the spindles off, axles out, balljoints replaced and am now waiting on ujoints. The ones on the axles were trashed! 2 of the 4 cups on the ujoints didnt have any needle bearings inside anymore.
