how much does it help to put on a gutted ebpv. i got one that was gutted and cleaned, up just have to put it on.

 

How much does it help what? The valve is designed to hasten engine warm-up to get your heater going for cold weather driving. I can't imagine that the removal of the valve will do anything for performance unless it is malfunctioning, in which case it makes better sense to me to get it fixed. If you don't like it coming on, just unplug it.

 

Gutting the EBPV has been one of the things that is done in conjunction with installing a downpipe and adding a larger exhaust. I had mine gutted when my exhaust was redone, and the whole package made a difference in reducing EGT's and improving flow. I didn't have guages in place when I did mine, but some guys report their EGT's dropping 50-100* from this mod, and I know personally that gutting mine didn't increase the warmup time, and eliminated the increased restriction while the engine was cold.

 

That may all be true but what somebody needs to do is take a base line rear wheel horse power reading, do the down pipe installation, get another H/P reading, then remove the EBP butterfly and do another H/P reading to see if it actually helps enough to justify the trouble of doing the modification. Also, if you live in southern California or Florida, cold weather warm up time may not be a factor to you but what happens when you sell your truck, the dealer takes it to the auction and it ends up in Minnesota? The new owner may not be as happy about the removal of that butter fly valve as you were. I have never tried it so I don't know, but I can't imagine that enough exhaust is moving through that turbo that the butter fly valve is disrupting the flow enough to cause much of a gain in H/P. And, even if I'm wrong about that, it would be full throttle H/P. How often do you run for any extended period of time at full throttle? It is certainly your truck to do with as you wish, but I can't see how the performance gain benefit out weighs the benefit of fast cold weather warm ups. (My opinion only.)

 

Minnesota here, it takes 5-7 minutes to get heat with or without the EBPV.

 

Before gutting mine, I monitored warm up time carefully over a two week period, then disconnected the wire that activates the valve, and compared the warm up time for another week. There was no difference. None.
To get an idea of how much air is coming out of the turbo, have someone hold their foot on the throttle at 1500 rpm, and go feel the flow out of the exhaust pipe. If it's a stock exhaust pipe, it's 3.5", and the outlet of the turbo is only 3.0" , which allows 36% less airflow than a 3.5" tailpipe. That puppy is blowing a lot of air at relatively low rpms. You don't have to be at WOT for the reduced restriction to be noticeable.
Just my $.02, but I'm not alone in my thinking.

 

i am in michigan and unplugged mine and noticed no longer warm up time's. like i said i have one that has been gutted and cleaned up was wondering if it is worth the time to swap it out.
and how hard the old one to get out. the down pipe was just replace and looks like ti is just on with a clamp.

thanks

 

The only thing remotely hard about removing the EBPV is getting to the bolt on the back side. It's a bear to get to. You need a 12-point socket to remove the bolts, and you'll need to disconnect the linkage from the bottom of the valve.

 

I wonder how y'all are measuring warm up. If you are only thinking about how long it takes for the coolant to warm up, you may be missing the point. I'm not an expert but can think very well mechanically.

With the EBPV in place, I can imagine that the cylinder space and pistons will warm up quicker with the valve in place. So for that first initial 15 minutes or so, the fuel vapor in the cylinder is able to burn better because of the increased temp in the cylinder. I think you have to view this warm up more at a localized level in the cylinder/piston area.

As far as measuring air coming out the exhaust, why don't you go borrow a volumeter which measures air flow like a professional air balancing person would use. Then you would know what is really happening. Also, when you talk about restrictions to flow like a smaller opening here or there in a pipe, you have to take into account the length of the restriction and not just the diameter. Short lengths of lower diameter pipe don't necessarily mean a restriction that is going to have an effect depending on the cubic feet/minute of exhaust in the design.

I have to think that Ford Engineers have a well thought out and scientific reason for the EBPV.

 

In 1995, they thought the TEE5 computer code was pretty sweet, too, until they updated it repeatedly with better codes, like the TDE0, TDE1, etc. Have you ever put headers on a Chevy small block? The engineers at GM are brilliant in their own way, but they don't know how I want my truck to run. They're building vehicles for the masses, not for performance minded individuals. When it was decided that Powerstroke engines were to be put into Ford trucks, they had to build the engines to be serviceable in both Alaska and Texas. These trucks are immensely popular in both places, and rightly so. Though I don't live in Alaska, it's possible that there might be a slight difference in how quickly the engine reaches full operating temperature with a functioning EBPV, but it isn't perceptible in Seattle where I live. I also don't use the block heater, since it was an addition for those that want/need it. These trucks do an excellent job at what they were designed to do: satisfy the masses. It's capable of "living" in virtually any climate, and performing quite well. Having it tailored for the individual owner isn't slighting the Ford engineers any more than it's an insult to the hat designer when I roll the bill on my baseball cap.

 

Ok, you win. I was not aware that the EBPV didn't play a significant role in warm up time (that's what I was told it was/is for). My problem is, I don't drive a Power Stroke equipped vehicle, so I don't know how they act in the real world. There is no doubt that the removal of the butterfly valve will increase air flow through the turbo. My question was, is it worth trading a quick warm up for more performance? So if you aren't really trading away the quick warm up (assuming it warms up at the same approximate rate with or without the EBPV) then the answer has to be yes.

 

Joe, I don't profess to know as much about the inner workings of a Powerstroke as you do. What I do know is that in my quest for more power, I'll be developing more heat, so anything that increases power and reduces heat, I'm all over that.
Let me ask you a technical question: How much backpressure is ideal for a Powerstroke? The engineers that designed it determined at one time what optimum is, and probably had to vary from that for the sake of emissions, sound control, etc. Is zero backpressure really ideal, or is there some specific amount that will optimize performance?
I'm frequently in touch with people that swear up and down that the turbo provides all the backpressure a Powerstroke needs, but I'd like to hear it from your viewpoint.
Thanks in advance for any info you can pass my way.

 

Joe I live in Michigan, and I use my block heater and my E.B.V.n cold nights (20 degs f and colder). I put the E.B.V. on a switch and it does make a noticeable difference on warm up times. The engine wont get up to regular operating temp. just idling turn the valve on and it warms right up to operating temp. in about 5 mins.

 

As far as I know, the EBP sensor on the 7.3L engine only monitors EBP for the purpose of activating and modulating the EBPV. So, you are not going to get rid of all the back pressure ahead of the turbo because some back pressure is necessary to run the turbo. But, I would think that the less back pressure you have beyond the turbo, the more freely the turbo will spin and the more power you can make. Keep in mind that I am not an engineer.

 

Joe, you might not be an engineer, but you know a lot, and you're a straight shooter. I gotta appreciate that.