high amp alternator
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
high amp alternator
on my Early Bronco i have an alternator of a 79 lincoln i believe. it puts out alot higher amps than stock. thinking of doing it on my 77 crew cab, anyone done this or know of another cheap alternative.
Ryan Palmer 77 Crew Cab
72 Bronco
Ryan Palmer 77 Crew Cab
72 Bronco
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Only concern I can think of upgrading to high amp alternators is keep the fuse link to fuse panel the same size as stock. Extra load such as winch, welder, driving lights, fans etc should come off the alternator feed to batt and fused seperatly.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Temple, TX
I disagree... I think they should be wired to come off the alternator's output terminal. When aftermarket accessories are wired to the battery charge wire (i.e. the battery side of the solenoid) they reduce the available current available to charge the battery long before the alternator is at its maximum output. All that power is either coming through the relatively small fusible link (about 14 gauge I think), or discharging the battery. Meanwhile, the voltage regulator is on the other end of the charge wire, and doesn't see all the voltage drop that occurs when a large current flows over a long, thin fusible link. Also, if you are using the factory ammeter, anything wired to the solenoid will cause the ammeter to falsely indicate a positive current flow to the battery, when in fact the battery may even be discharging if the load is great enough. I have a big electric fuel pump as well as a Lincoln MK-VIII fan wired up through a fuse block connected directly to the alternator output terminal, and the stock 60A alternator is able to keep up with them wired this way.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 796
Likes: 1
I disagree... I think they should be wired to come off the alternator's output terminal. When aftermarket accessories are wired to the battery charge wire (i.e. the battery side of the solenoid) they reduce the available current available to charge the battery long before the alternator is at its maximum output. All that power is either coming through the relatively small fusible link (about 14 gauge I think), or discharging the battery. Meanwhile, the voltage regulator is on the other end of the charge wire, and doesn't see all the voltage drop that occurs when a large current flows over a long, thin fusible link. Also, if you are using the factory ammeter, anything wired to the solenoid will cause the ammeter to falsely indicate a positive current flow to the battery, when in fact the battery may even be discharging if the load is great enough. I have a big electric fuel pump as well as a Lincoln MK-VIII fan wired up through a fuse block connected directly to the alternator output terminal, and the stock 60A alternator is able to keep up with them wired this way.
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Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
I disagree... I think they should be wired to come off the alternator's output terminal. When aftermarket accessories are wired to the battery charge wire (i.e. the battery side of the solenoid) they reduce the available current available to charge the battery long before the alternator is at its maximum output. All that power is either coming through the relatively small fusible link (about 14 gauge I think), or discharging the battery. Meanwhile, the voltage regulator is on the other end of the charge wire, and doesn't see all the voltage drop that occurs when a large current flows over a long, thin fusible link. Also, if you are using the factory ammeter, anything wired to the solenoid will cause the ammeter to falsely indicate a positive current flow to the battery, when in fact the battery may even be discharging if the load is great enough. I have a big electric fuel pump as well as a Lincoln MK-VIII fan wired up through a fuse block connected directly to the alternator output terminal, and the stock 60A alternator is able to keep up with them wired this way.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 12
From: Northeast LA
I'm gonna continue this Hijacking, by saying I'm confused. It sounds like both of you are saying the same thing not disagreeing.
Also, if I'm understanding you correctly you're saying the main power wire to feed 12 volts to my Subwoofer Amp should be hooked to the back of the alternator and not the positive post of the battery? I've never heard that.
Oh I have the 3g upgrade on my truck and it's great. Replaced the fusible link with an 80 amp wafer fuse, and I have a 175 amp mini MIDI on the main BAT wire.
EDIT: Ah Ha I was confused, cause ya'll were saying the same thing. LOL
Also, if I'm understanding you correctly you're saying the main power wire to feed 12 volts to my Subwoofer Amp should be hooked to the back of the alternator and not the positive post of the battery? I've never heard that.
Oh I have the 3g upgrade on my truck and it's great. Replaced the fusible link with an 80 amp wafer fuse, and I have a 175 amp mini MIDI on the main BAT wire.
EDIT: Ah Ha I was confused, cause ya'll were saying the same thing. LOL
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 796
Likes: 1
If you want your factory ammeter to work properly you will. There are some other reasons too, but for you it's probably a moot point. If you have the 3g upgrade you either didn't have a factory ammeter or it probably doesn't work now anyway.
