fuel filter
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
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From: La La Land
I run a Dahl-100 pre-pump with a two-micron element, so anything that it doesn't catch goes right through the Baldwin that's in the fuel canister. I virtually never change the OEM-location one, and the last time I did, it looked like new anyway.
Maybe once every three years? I don't give it a thought, and except for the maintenance log, I don't even keep track.
The Dahl gets changed about annually.
I buy fuel from a high-volume station here in town. When on the road, always at an OTR stop.
Pop
Maybe once every three years? I don't give it a thought, and except for the maintenance log, I don't even keep track.
The Dahl gets changed about annually.
I buy fuel from a high-volume station here in town. When on the road, always at an OTR stop.
Pop
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From: Paramount, Ca
Molon Labe
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Alaska
I just paid $44 for a Wix at O-reillys.....
Thanks Clay.
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Weldona, CO
Aftermarket Filter Cap
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Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzleguzzle's Mods & Maintenance website
Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 687
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From: Prosper, TX
When you run a B20 fuel you don't need any further lubrication additives, and it does do a nice job of cleaning your fuel system-if you've never run it before (or any other additive) I would start with a fresh filter and run may be 2 tanks then change the filter again-you'll be surprised what might be in there each time-then you "should" be OK.
I know in my area of Florida there is only 1 source of Bio and at the B20 ratio it is as much as .10 per gallon MORE than the truckstop dino fuel.
I know in my area of Florida there is only 1 source of Bio and at the B20 ratio it is as much as .10 per gallon MORE than the truckstop dino fuel.
I thought I saw a report on here saying that at least a 2% Bio solution was better then any other lubricant on the market.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 209
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From: Newport, RI USA
Looks like I will be getting a filter and cap from Clay... I have two filters that need a cap, but no cap...
Kyle, I think you are right about B2 (B5?) having enough lubricity to cover what's lost by ULSD. I probably shouldn't bother with any additives in the summer (with B100) but it's a habit and seems to work (how would I know till I quit??). I definitely need anti gel in the winter, I go to cold places!
BTW Howes is local and I had a nice chat with a guy there. Essentially, no anti-gel works on bio, but blended (B5 B20) it should not be a problem. It's just hard for me to make it work out unless I 'blend' it at the pump or shortly before filling up. It will sink to the bottom if you dump it in after.
For heating oil it's called 'bio-heat'.
Kyle, I think you are right about B2 (B5?) having enough lubricity to cover what's lost by ULSD. I probably shouldn't bother with any additives in the summer (with B100) but it's a habit and seems to work (how would I know till I quit??). I definitely need anti gel in the winter, I go to cold places!
BTW Howes is local and I had a nice chat with a guy there. Essentially, no anti-gel works on bio, but blended (B5 B20) it should not be a problem. It's just hard for me to make it work out unless I 'blend' it at the pump or shortly before filling up. It will sink to the bottom if you dump it in after.
For heating oil it's called 'bio-heat'.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Slatington, PA
