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Help with head-light conversion

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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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Help with head-light conversion

Hello all, need some help, I'm switching from the sealed headlight with the 3 prongs wired to the back of the light to the plug style headlights on an 01 F250.

After doing the conversion and re-wiring to the plug I can't seem to get the 9007 bulbs to work correctly, 9004 bulbs will work but won't stay in the headlight housing.

I can get the 9007 bulbs to work but when brights are on the actual reg light are on and vice versa.

After running a test light to the wires after monkeying with it for a while I now don't even have power to my reg light wires only brights so I might have two sep issues. My fuses are good so what am I missing or has some one run into something similar?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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JockD
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The wiring diagram for the "Aero" headlights and the sealed beam headlights is the same up until near the bulb, unless you have Daytime Running Lights. The wiring diagram shows that the Aero lights have the wires go straight into the lamp socket, whereas the sealed beams have a short extension between the main harness and the lamp. The color codes for the wires are the same for both systems: Light green with a black tracer for both high beams (central junction box fuse #16), Dark blue with a white tracer for the left low beam (battery junction box fuse #9) and Dark green with an orange tracer for the right low beam (battery junction box fuse #11).

The cheapest way to change the plugs may be to get one of the high-temperature extension harnesses that people use when they install high-temperature bulbs. Just cut off the female end an splice the proper wire to your main harness.

I changed my headlights to use relays so I could run large (#8 ) wire directly from the battery to eliminate voltage drop. I split my system so each low beam has it's own fuse - just like Ford did it, and I use the original wiring to trigger the relays. I was able to keep my Daytime Running Lights by using the normally closed points in the relay to make that connection.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JockD
The wiring diagram for the "Aero" headlights and the sealed beam headlights is the same up until near the bulb, unless you have Daytime Running Lights. The wiring diagram shows that the Aero lights have the wires go straight into the lamp socket, whereas the sealed beams have a short extension between the main harness and the lamp. The color codes for the wires are the same for both systems: Light green with a black tracer for both high beams (central junction box fuse #16), Dark blue with a white tracer for the left low beam (battery junction box fuse #9) and Dark green with an orange tracer for the right low beam (battery junction box fuse #11).

The cheapest way to change the plugs may be to get one of the high-temperature extension harnesses that people use when they install high-temperature bulbs. Just cut off the female end an splice the proper wire to your main harness.

I changed my headlights to use relays so I could run large (#8 ) wire directly from the battery to eliminate voltage drop. I split my system so each low beam has it's own fuse - just like Ford did it, and I use the original wiring to trigger the relays. I was able to keep my Daytime Running Lights by using the normally closed points in the relay to make that connection.

THANK YOU! No day time running lights on my truck, let me ask you this does it show a relay for the headlights in the wiring diagram?

Also my plugs I received from ford to plug the headlights in are not colored, just 3 black wires from the back of the plug.

Thanks again
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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The wiring diagram has no relays in the regular headlight systems. The DRL system has a relay.

If you hold the 9007 headlight plug with the pins facing you and the flat side down, the bottom (center) contact is the ground (common) terminal. The left hand contact is the Low beam and the right hand contact is the High beam.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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Go figure my wires are goofy, my color combo is purple which is ground I believe, blue, red, and orange.

The 9004 bulbs will work like normal from reg to brights but when I put in 9007's they will turn on but I can't even adjust from reg to bright from inside the cab.

Do you think it's my wiring or just not enough power? If I wanted to run dircetly from the battery what exactly would I do? Run from battery to switch, then from switch to newly created relay to light or vice versa?

Much appreciated JD
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:27 PM
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9004 bulbs and 9007 bulbs are wired differently and although look similar are completely different. If you are looking head on at the back of the bulb, the 9004 terminals are as follows ground on left, low beam middle, high beam on right. The 9007 terminals are as follows,high beam on the left, ground in the middle, low beam on the right.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #7  
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JockD
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GLL-LLC, look at your harness back further. The 2001 wiring diagram shows a "jumper" harness between the main harness and the bulbs. Maybe the "jumper" harness has a different color code. The wiring diagram says that the colors are the same all the way from the fuses. Use a test light or voltmeter and find out which color wire is high, low, and ground in your old harness. Then hook them up to the correct terminal on the 9007 plug, the pinouts are given above.

To make my relay-type harness, I tapped into the battery cables at the starter solenoid on the passenger side fender well. From there I fed a 4-slot fuse holder. I ran wires from the fuses to three relays that I mounted on the inside fender by the passenger side battery. One relay feeds both high beams through 8 gauge wire. One relay feeds the passenger side low beam with 8 gauge wire. The third relay feeds the driver side low beam with 8 gauge wire.

I cut up a extension harness made to run 9007 high output bulbs to tap into the regular harness to trigger the relays. Since I was retaining my Daytime Running Lights, I did it a more complex way. You will want to cut the high beam wire in the extension harness on one side (I suggest the passenger side) and hook the power end of it to the energizing (coil) terminal on the high beam relay. The bulb end of the extension harness high beam wire goes to the 8 gauge wire from the output of the relay. The driver side bulb gets hooked to the same 8 gauge wire which needs to be long enough to reach all the way across the truck.

The low beams are done the same way, except that each side uses its own relay. The center terminal of each extension harness should have at least a 12 gauge wire spliced into it and run to a good ground near the headlight. The ground side of each relay coil circuit needs to run to a good ground near the relay, and can be 16 gauge wire.
 
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