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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

transmission speedometer gear

 
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:17 PM
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transmission speedometer gear

Hello all, Wondering where to find the plastic speedometer gear that links transmission to speedometer cable on my 1958 3 speed for the 223. I think 259 series. Mine's broke and I'm having trouble locating another.

Also one of the thrust washers rubbed some grooves into the case. Should case be replaced?

When I first test drove truck I heard loud clinking sound, I'm wondering if thats from the missing tooth on my 1st/reverse slider.
 
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:42 PM
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Dennis Carpenter lists several speedo cable gears in their catalog. I don't know if any of them will work for you, but it's worth a call.
 
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 58AZF100 View Post
Hello all, Wondering where to find the plastic speedometer gear that links transmission to speedometer cable on my 1958 3 speed for the 223. I think 259 series. Mine's broke and I'm having trouble locating another.

Also one of the thrust washers rubbed some grooves into the case. Should case be replaced?

When I first test drove truck I heard loud clinking sound, I'm wondering if thats from the missing tooth on my 1st/reverse slider.
How bad are the grooves? These thrust washers are on the cluster gear in the bottom of the case, right? Mine were pretty bad, and I checked into fixes. Mac Van Pelt (http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...sID_3speed.htm) offered a service that is tempting; they machine the cast iron boss down, bore it out, and insert a steel replacement surface. That's as permanent and "right" as you can get, and it was pretty pricey. I don't see it on his wewbsite any more, it may not be available any more. Any good machinist with the proper tools and understanding of the transmission could do it (that's actually a lot to ask of the machinist!)

I ended up smoothing the surface as best I could (not much) and slathering Loctite Sleeve Retainer on the grooved surface, then slapping a shim and new thrust washer on it. It's working fine so far. The shim was necessary to get spec'd end-play. The absolutely critical thing is to make sure the tab on the thrust washer engages the slot so it will not rotate -- that's what makes the grooves.

Yes, a missing or badly chipped tooth will make a thunking noise, until it makes a really big thunk and locks up!
 

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