This last weekend I put all my time in to work on my truck. I have replaced the exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, upper plenum, and throttle body gaskets, new IAC, CTS, TPS, and EVP sensors. I have also pulled off the muffler, and hollowed out the cat. So for exhaust, all I'm runnin is a hollowed out cat. Now the problem. When I was working on the left side of the engine i hit the EGR valve with my elbow, and snapped the tube in half where the ribs are. Would this cause my engine to misfire? I tried to track down the problem, but to no avail I haven't found it yet. Also when in Reverse, or 1ST gear the engine bogs down, and sometimes stalls. RPM's at about 250 to 300. What could be causing the extreme load on the engine? Next, tranny starting to slip, fluid smells burnt. Is it going out, or could it be an electrical failure? When I turn my headlights on, it draws alot of juice. I replaced the swtich because of headlights blinking. I want to make truck in a prerunner, but I can't go play in the mud if it's not running. Someone please help me.
91 F-250 2wd 3/4 ton 351W e4od 3.55 Running 33 12.50 16.50 stock height

 

if you pulled the distributer out you could have jumped a tooth putting it back in. make sure it faces #1 when #1 cylinder is at top dead center.

 

What part did you break? The tube from the manifold? The sensor on the egr valve sends info to the computer on the valve position. This would/will affect timing .(re read post might not be the problem)
Did you adjust the TPS to 1.0 volt at the closed position? ( I belive
1.0 volt is correct)

Major problem with Fords 302-351 Plug wire missfiring !
Did you replace the wires?
I cant count the sets of wires I've replaced, usually after a noticeable skip.
If not move them around. There shold be a link around to show proper
routing for this .

Head light switch : did you also replace the wiring connector at the
switch? as this overheats and fails also.
Check the wiring for the dimmer switch on the floor,I plow with mine
and the floor/rug is usually wet , this leads to the dimmer switch
dieing.

Heres my soulution for a cheap 3" cat back exauhst:
3"in/out Walker SuperDynomax Muffler Aprox 80.00
94 Dodge Diesel Long Bed Tail Pipe 3" aprox 45.00
1 2.5 od to 3.0 id adapter from cat to muffler 3.00

You will need 2 universal hangers 1 by the outlet of muff
the other on the frame to tailpipe behind rear wheel.
I'm on the 3rd one on my truck since 92.
Best part is it's cheep and no cutting perfect fit!
Sounds good with a empty cat also!

Bob
88 F350 5.8 C-6 4.10s 8.5 Western Pro Plow

 

First off I did not mess with the distributor when I was working on the engine. The problem turned out to be the EGR Valve pipe. Since it broke in half, it wasn't activating the EVP Sensor, so it caused a misfire.

As far as the TPS goes, I can't get an accurate reading at all. So I just messed with it till it worked.

When I replaced the headlight switch I did not replace the block section. It is warped a little, so should I replace it?
I havn't checked the dimer switch on the floor yet but will do that promptly.

And thanks "bwamx" for the Cat-back sytem. I will have to try it!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-17-03 AT 00:38 AM (EST)]I know that the Standard Parts headlight switch came with the wiring
pigtail . As I replaced my wire connector when I did the switch.
Bob

On another truck:
EGR Tube broke running down the Hi-Way fell over and blew a hole
right through the big plastic vaccum resevoir on the pass fenderwell.
What a mess.

If you want part numbers for the exauhst let me know.

 

 

even after replacing the the cap and rotor, and the EGR Valve pipe, I still have a misfire, and it is running crappy. OI pulled the codes, and I get 34, and 65
What do these codes mean exactly?

 

Code 34 = EVAP control system fault / voltage higher than closed limit

Code 65 according to my code book only applies to your truck if you were running a Key On Engine Running test. Then it is either a bad OD switch or you did not push it in when the test was running.