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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

stalls when cold, until warms up

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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:13 AM
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stalls when cold, until warms up

'88 351, c6.
idles high, maybe 2000 ,retarded timing, back out idle screw.
Today, started up, warmed up for maybe a minute put it in gear an drove away to store. restarted it, no warm up time, put in gear, hit throttle, and DIED.a bunch of times. Started up, put in gear, let it drive towards home at idlew/o hitting throttle, drove 1/2 mile an felt like it was gonna stall, pulled over, left foot brake, right foot gas pedal, and it friggin took off, no more problems driving 3 miles back home WTH. HELP !!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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88 351 doesn't or shouldn't have a idle adjustment screw unless its a carbed model.

EFI's idle speed is controlled by the computer, the throttle body has a stop screw locked in place and never needs adjustment. Well unless someone turned it, needs reset to prevent throttle plate from digging into throttle body.

The IAC may be the cause of your idle issues if it varies, if high but steady all the time might be vac leak or leaks. May also cause stalling.

The stalling out cold could also be ECT and or ACT sensors, run the self test and pull the CM codes, see what if anything the computer will tell you.

Self test is always the best place to start.

Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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i was kinda hoping cleaning the iac would be the fix ?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 88dually
i was kinda hoping cleaning the iac would be the fix ?
That often helps if the valve is dirty but the electric solenoid itself is still good.
Remove and flush the valve end with some carb cleaner, easy enough to do and zero/low cost test, especially if a guys already got some carb cleaner on hand.
Clean it in a valving end hanging down orientation so the carb cleaner doesn't flush any junk into the electrical end of the IAC.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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kinda sounds like the iac...
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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i'm hoping its something easy, just bought this truck an already blew up a gas tank, and getting the old hole ready for a bronco 32 gal tank.
Noticed theres a car c6 in it, dipstick tube comes upto exhaust manifold, theres some kinda oil leak somewhere,and looks like the front pump seal on trans leaks. Both upper balljoints are shot, an both inner tie rod ends are bad, and the steering shaft has 4" of play on the steering wheel. i need some kinda break today.....lolol
just keep saying spray the iac lolol
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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I would say all of what danr1 said in above in post #2.

Get the codes and post them.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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i can pull elec conn. off iac an still runs at same rpm as with it connected.
i noticed it does it when it runs hot, almost over heating hot
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by 88dually
i can pull elec conn. off iac an still runs at same rpm as with it connected.
Then the IAC is not working at all.
Here is a link with some information about it:
Ford Fuel Injection » Idle Air Bypass (IAB)

Also check for voltages and wiring at the TPS and the IAC.



/
 
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