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  #16  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:14 PM
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When you say not much labor does that mean I can do it or a pretty good shade tree mechanic can do it? Also any idea on the cost of the part?
 
  #17  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:15 PM
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It depends on if you will be doing the work yourself or having the dealer do it. Most dealers want about 450.00 a side to do it from what I have seen. I also must mention while you are doing it to replace the IWE solenoid with the new upgraded unit to prevent future issues. It has the water shield built in to it and is like a 10min job to do. There is some decent pictures to use here http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...replacing.html its a very simple job really just time, basic tools and money.
 
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by URDADDY
When you say not much labor does that mean I can do it or a pretty good shade tree mechanic can do it? Also any idea on the cost of the part?
Yes it's either a relay on the firewall (unplug&plug) or a simple external solenoid change on the transfer case.
 
  #19  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:22 PM
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ok thanks for the information so far. Im guessing this is a dealer only part? Also I will either do it myself or take it to my shop as the local ford house stinks.
 
  #20  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:14 PM
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Im gonna start by replacing the IWE solenoid, and see if that cures it. Seems most who have the issue have it happen when in 2WD though. Will post after the new solenoid is in.
 
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:16 PM
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Easy enough
 
  #22  
Old 12-07-2010, 09:00 PM
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Parts; Yes they are "dealer only" available. The IWEs are about $75 apiece (one per side, if both are bad). The solenoid is around $27. Those prices are what several online dealers are selling them for. My local dealer will match online prices. Yours may as well, if you ask them to.

The solenoid is very easy. 10mm socket for two bolts.

The IWEs are not that hard if you have average back yard mechanical skills. There are several threads that tell how. I used this one,

http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/360269-iwes-removal-replacing.html

it's a long thread, but you'll see what needs to be done (some pictures, and tool list)

Go through the trouble shooting per the 1st thread I posted. That will explain how the system works and what's causing the noises, etc. Seriously, if you can replace an alternator or radiator, you can do this. I did and saved almost $1K in labor.
 
  #23  
Old 12-10-2010, 04:28 PM
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OK so I replaced the IWE solenoid today and it made no difference. I also went ahead and tried 4 low and it made the same noise. What to look at next?
Thanks,
Richard
 
  #24  
Old 12-11-2010, 03:20 AM
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After reading the entire thread you recommended and doing a bit more looking I have discovered that with the truck off when I pulled the vacume line of the solenoid there was quite a bit or air pressure in there. Didnt think that was normal. Im gonna clean out the lines tomorrow. Also almost everyone on here complains about the grinding noise in 2HI, mine only does it in 4HI and 4LOW. Are my actuators just that bad? Just odd that my noise is the opposite of almost everyone else.
Thanks.
 
  #25  
Old 12-11-2010, 04:58 AM
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I know it's a pain, but to check the IWEs you really need to have the front wheels off the ground. Either on jack stands or if you don't have them (I didn't when mine went out) you can use the jack on one side at a time. Like the thread says, with the engine off, when you turn/spin the front wheel, the front wheel[s] should turn the front axles (no vacuum=IWE engaged). Then, with the truck in "park" (parking brake on, etc.), and still in 2WD, with the engine running, when the wheel/tire is spun the axle should NOT turn (engine running applies vacuum= IWE DIS-engaged).
 
  #26  
Old 12-11-2010, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
Your IWE's are bad they tend to stick after long periods of non use and then only engage halfway and grind off the splines. I make sure to at least engage mine monthly to prevent the issue. So far so good on my 2006.
from what i understand the fronts engage on thier own when setting due to the air pump is off and that lets the plates come back together and engage the 4x4 but when you start the truck they pump back up and pull away.
 
  #27  
Old 12-12-2010, 06:28 AM
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Urdaddy,
The "air pressure release" you mention is likely from the vacuum resevior. That stores vacuum pressure within the system (normal). You already replaced the solenoid (most people do that, hoping for the cheap and easy fix). You need to do the trouble shooting per the first thread I posted if you want to identify the exact issue. It may very well BE the IWEs, or a check valve, but you have to check the individual elements to find out.
When my truck started the noise I went through the trouble shooting and found the right front IWE held no pressure at all, and my left IWE leaked slowly. In my case I think a bad solenoid may have caused the failures, but it was irrelevent. The right IWE was actually broken internally, in addition to the bad seal.
I'll admit, the noise is usually when our trucks are in 2WD. You still need to go through the trouble shooting to figure out what parts are/are not working properly. That's what a shop would have to do. From what I've read on forums, some mechanics are surprisingly lacking in knowledge of how the 4x4 system works. And don't waste you money (like I did) on a Haynes manual-it won't tell anything on how to find out what's wrong with the 4x4.
 
  #28  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:50 PM
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Thanks for the reply 60DRB, Im going to break down and buy the gauge to check pressure. I did look and didnt find any water in the lines. The reason I was quick to jump to the IWE's was as I understand from your post the pressure holds them out. So if my issue is when I turn 4 wheel drive on the pressures seem irrelevant since it does engage just sounds terrible. Please correct me if Im wrong. Thanks for all the help so far.
 
  #29  
Old 12-13-2010, 05:40 AM
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...XJC79's and TNF-150's threads I posted, they did the work putting the threads together! You'll notice some of my questions on both threads, as they walked me through the learning process.

It difficult to be sure what's working/NOT working without the vacuum gauge. I had to buy one as I didn't know anybody who had one. Cost me about $65.

The only odd thing I read on your situation is that the noise occurs when you turn the 4x4 ON. Normally the grating/grinding noise occurs with our (F-150) trucks are in 2WD. Still, you need to check the IWEs and vacuum lines, check valves, etc to find out what the actual problem is.
 
  #30  
Old 12-13-2010, 08:50 AM
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I know I have seen the part # for the actuators while reading all the threads but cant seem to find it again. Anyone know the part number for the actuator?
Thanks
 


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