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I'm not putting those crappy injectors back in my truck.
What are Casserly/Full-Force stix?
Someone please direct me to the most indestructible injectors on the market. I really don't care about price - I think I've learned my lesson. I just want something that's going to work.
I'm not putting those crappy injectors back in my truck.
What are Casserly/Full-Force stix?
Someone please direct me to the most indestructible injectors on the market. I really don't care about price - I think I've learned my lesson. I just want something that's going to work.
You don't have to put it all the way back together to test run. Just plug in the injectors with the valve cover gaskets laying there, valve covers removed.
It will start and idle without making a huge mess, just don't rev it up.
You don't even need to re-install the intake tubes. Idle speed is controlled by how much fuel is injected.
I did just that - I torqued all the injectors and glow plugs in and then plugged in the valve cover gasket and the wiring harness and attempted to start the truck. It almost instantly hydrolocked. So I pulled all the glow plugs and tried turning it over by hand and it wouldn't budge. . . which tells me it's one of the cylinders on the drivers side.
I live in TN i drove to Diesel care and performance had nothing but bad luck with their injectors i think they are 2 out of th 8 still in the truck they started going out 2 weeks after in put thm in they all failed the buzz test and would be missing and i used the solous scanner. i will never spend any more with them, good luck
I live in TN i drove to Diesel care and performance had nothing but bad luck with their injectors i think they are 2 out of th 8 still in the truck they started going out 2 weeks after in put thm in they all failed the buzz test and would be missing and i used the solous scanner. i will never spend any more with them, good luck
Sounds like exactly what happened to me. Within 2 weeks it started having problems - since I just barely put injectors in I ruled them out - my mistake.
I'm looking at a set of brand new (not remanned) Alliant injectors but it is going to cost me $2200 for the set. I'm still trying to get through to Diesel Care and Performance to see what they will do for me. If they will give me a partial refund I'll agree not to bash them further.
Send them to jim at rosewood diesel. He's a site sponsor and the expert on injectors. He will completely go through them and rebuild them with full warranty. A great guy to work with and awesome prices
His name on here is DzlJim
..... and the lower ring was shredded and obviously leaking. My ex-Ford Tech friend thinks my injectors were lose which caused compression to burn away the ring but I'm positive they were tightened to 35 ft lbs of torque. It is possible that the top bolt was lose. How tight is the top bolt supposed to be?
What ring? The copper washer or the lowest injector o-ring? Did you dunk the injector in oil before you installed it, or make sure the o-rings were really really lubed up well?
Check your torque specs. If you've been tightening the injector hold down bolts to 35 ft-lbs, I'm surprised you haven't snapped a bolt yet.
Check with Clay. He can sell you a set of brand new Alliant injectors for less than 2 grand.
Okay guys. I ran a buzz test and injector 5 failed. Keep in mind these are brand spanking new rebuilt injectors. This is the second "new" injector I've had fail.
Cylinder 5 and 7 were both hydrolocked. I pulled injector 5 and the lower ring was shredded and obviously leaking. My ex-Ford Tech friend thinks my injectors were lose which caused compression to burn away the ring but I'm positive they were tightened to 35 ft lbs of torque. It is possible that the top bolt was lose. How tight is the top bolt supposed to be?
So, you originally had a shop install the injectors and then you pulled them out and reinstalled them yourself. When you did that, did you install a brand new set of o-rings? If not, then I bet you have torn or nicked o-rings. If your injector bolts were very loose then the copper washer on the nozzle would have burned away so that isn't your problem. It actually sounds like you are tightening them too much. The lower bolt should be 120 INCH pounds, which is 10 ft lbs. The upper bolt should not be touched, you don't need to mess with those to remove the injectors. If you did loosen those upper bolts, then tighten them down before you install the injectors. I think they should be bottomed out to the shoulder of the bolt. Don't mix the upper and lower bolts. I think they are different lengths.
When you pull the glow plugs and rotate the engine by hand, what comes out? Oil or fuel?
So, you originally had a shop install the injectors and then you pulled them out and reinstalled them yourself.
No. I had a shop install 2 injectors. After still having problems I bought a whole new set of 8 and installed 6 of them. After still having problems I pulled out the two I had the shop do and one was missing a copper ring. I replaced it (the whole injector, not just the ring) with one of my two new ones. I lubed up the rings very good with some silicone grease and gently guided them in by hand until they bottomed out. There is no way in heck I tore any of those rings while I was installing them.
If your injector bolts were very loose then the copper washer on the nozzle would have burned away so that isn't your problem. It actually sounds like you are tightening them too much.
So you're saying tightening them too much causes new injectors to stick open, fail buzz tests, and cause my engine to hydrolock on at least 4 cylinders?
When you pull the glow plugs and rotate the engine by hand, what comes out? Oil or fuel?
So you're saying tightening them too much causes new injectors to stick open, fail buzz tests, and cause my engine to hydrolock on at least 4 cylinders?
I don't think he said that, just that 35lbs is to much. 10lbs is the spec.
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