Block Heater Cord Question
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 4
From: ILL relocated to Ozarks
For those living in a State where the roads are heavy salted as is the case here in northern IL, you may find that no matter how much one greases the block heater plug it will eventually rot as mine did after only three winter
Going down the road less traveled, I opted to cut off a two foot section of the rotten OEM wire and splice in a flexible commercial grade cord to act as a strain relief (since the OEM cord is not that flexible at below 10 F temps). Each wire splice was first soldered, a light covering of dielectric grease applied to each solder joint, then to each wire heat shrink was applied and a final layer of heat shrink appplied over the entire splice. On the other end of the cord extension I connected a Pass & Seymour watertight plug which also has a cap to protect plug blades when not plug in (really watertight). My extension cord also has the mating Pass & Seymour connector on it so the connection is truely watertight (manufacture claims to be watertight for 1000 psi high pressure hose-down).
Both mating connectors available from the local Lowes:
plug - 14W47 @ $9.91
connector - 15W47 @ $13.27
cap(for plug) - 14WPS @ $15.00
http://tools.passandseymour.com/spec...df/SF503R1.pdf
Shop Laundry Room : Electrical : Wiring Devices & Connectors : Wiring Device Electrical Plugs & Connectors : $15 - $25 at Lowes.com=
Going down the road less traveled, I opted to cut off a two foot section of the rotten OEM wire and splice in a flexible commercial grade cord to act as a strain relief (since the OEM cord is not that flexible at below 10 F temps). Each wire splice was first soldered, a light covering of dielectric grease applied to each solder joint, then to each wire heat shrink was applied and a final layer of heat shrink appplied over the entire splice. On the other end of the cord extension I connected a Pass & Seymour watertight plug which also has a cap to protect plug blades when not plug in (really watertight). My extension cord also has the mating Pass & Seymour connector on it so the connection is truely watertight (manufacture claims to be watertight for 1000 psi high pressure hose-down).
Both mating connectors available from the local Lowes:
plug - 14W47 @ $9.91
connector - 15W47 @ $13.27
cap(for plug) - 14WPS @ $15.00
http://tools.passandseymour.com/spec...df/SF503R1.pdf
Shop Laundry Room : Electrical : Wiring Devices & Connectors : Wiring Device Electrical Plugs & Connectors : $15 - $25 at Lowes.com=
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 854
Likes: 17
From: Florida
For those living in a State where the roads are heavy salted as is the case here in northern IL, you may find that no matter how much one greases the block heater plug it will eventually rot as mine did after only three winter
Going down the road less traveled, I opted to cut off a two foot section of the rotten OEM wire and splice in a flexible commercial grade cord to act as a strain relief (since the OEM cord is not that flexible at below 10 F temps). Each wire splice was first soldered, a light covering of dielectric grease applied to each solder joint, then to each wire heat shrink was applied and a final layer of heat shrink appplied over the entire splice. On the other end of the cord extension I connected a Pass & Seymour watertight plug which also has a cap to protect plug blades when not plug in (really watertight). My extension cord also has the mating Pass & Seymour connector on it so the connection is truely watertight (manufacture claims to be watertight for 1000 psi high pressure hose-down).
Both mating connectors available from the local Lowes:
plug - 14W47 @ $9.91
connector - 15W47 @ $13.27
cap(for plug) - 14WPS @ $15.00
http://tools.passandseymour.com/spec...df/SF503R1.pdf
Shop Laundry Room : Electrical : Wiring Devices & Connectors : Wiring Device Electrical Plugs & Connectors : $15 - $25 at Lowes.com=
Going down the road less traveled, I opted to cut off a two foot section of the rotten OEM wire and splice in a flexible commercial grade cord to act as a strain relief (since the OEM cord is not that flexible at below 10 F temps). Each wire splice was first soldered, a light covering of dielectric grease applied to each solder joint, then to each wire heat shrink was applied and a final layer of heat shrink appplied over the entire splice. On the other end of the cord extension I connected a Pass & Seymour watertight plug which also has a cap to protect plug blades when not plug in (really watertight). My extension cord also has the mating Pass & Seymour connector on it so the connection is truely watertight (manufacture claims to be watertight for 1000 psi high pressure hose-down).
Both mating connectors available from the local Lowes:
plug - 14W47 @ $9.91
connector - 15W47 @ $13.27
cap(for plug) - 14WPS @ $15.00
http://tools.passandseymour.com/spec...df/SF503R1.pdf
Shop Laundry Room : Electrical : Wiring Devices & Connectors : Wiring Device Electrical Plugs & Connectors : $15 - $25 at Lowes.com=
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Charleston
I am glad electricity is cheap here in SC!! I have it on about 3 hours before the truck starts when it drops below 25ish. It does sound a helluva lot better when it starts, but the truck is definitely still cold, no warm air for a while, and the temp gage is still pegged at the bottom. But it got rid of that 'clanking' sound on the first few minutes after starting.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 854
Likes: 17
From: Florida
I bought the Ford OEM cord. It is a nice cord, but for the price, I am sure the ebay cords are just as good and 1/4 the price. It is almost impossible to get the OEM cord to go where Ford intended without removing the engine. So you end up zip tying it wherever you can and not using many of the fancy push pins that Ford placed on the loom. You need to take off the right front wheel and splash guard to get in there and it is still a PITA to get it to where Ford wants it to be.
After all this, I bet I don't end up using it.
After all this, I bet I don't end up using it.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
we have a 01 f550 and a 04 f350 both were bought in Georgia and both came with plug cords. and i have seen 2 other trucks that my buddies have(both 2004 also) and both have the plug cords. wondering why our georgia trucks have cords while alot of other people are getting theirs without plugs? was it a option that just happened to be on our trucks because i thought they were standard?
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I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
we have a 01 f550 and a 04 f350 both were bought in Georgia and both came with plug cords. and i have seen 2 other trucks that my buddies have(both 2004 also) and both have the plug cords. wondering why our georgia trucks have cords while alot of other people are getting theirs without plugs? was it a option that just happened to be on our trucks because i thought they were standard?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 0
From: High Point, NC
I received the one I ordered off ebay and got installed the other day - we're visiting family in NC and this morning we had ~5 inches of snow on the ground, I plugged the truck in for about 2 hours, when I went back out side there was obvious melting on the hood... not like running off, but you could tell there was heat under there and the snow was starting to melt. When I cranked it up, the ScanGuage showed 92* and the outside temp was ~29*. So far, so good for it's functionality/operability.
According to my inline meter, the heater is pulling about 7.9 amps or so. Right on track for 1000 watts.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,604
Likes: 4
From: Claremore, OK
Both ways your going to speed some $$$ on either fuel or electricity. Personally, I'm a block heater kind of guy...
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 854
Likes: 17
From: Florida
The block heater uses about 1000W so it does consume some electricity, but this was also a colder than normal Dec for most of us. My electric bill was $100 higher this Dec and I never plugged it in (didn't have it installed yet).
I have been pleasantly surprised how well the 5W-40 synthetic has helped with cold starts - nice and smooth even in the 20's. With 15W-40 it would crank slow and lack power until the EOT was at least 70.
I have been pleasantly surprised how well the 5W-40 synthetic has helped with cold starts - nice and smooth even in the 20's. With 15W-40 it would crank slow and lack power until the EOT was at least 70.