NEWBIE... 1997 F250 (Old Style) HeLp getting started? ? ?
#16
12-06-2010, 10:38 PM
I wouldn't worry about oil pressure. These gauges are a fluke. I would check the boots for the senders. I checked mine and the coolant temperature switch boot was done for. Oil pressure was fine but the gauge still doesn't move. Unless you hear bad stuff under the hood you can safely assume it has pressure. I plan on converting mine soon myself, got all the parts. Just need to rip of the power steering pump and air cleaner hoses as the senders a bit difficult to get to.
#17
12-06-2010, 10:54 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Beatrice, NE
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is the 351 closely related to the 302? Reason I ask is I owned two 5.0 mustangs in the past and you could push some extra power just by bumping up the timing (I think to 14deg, but it has been 10+ yrs), open up the exhaust and ease up on the intake restrictions. It was worth like 12 to 15 horses.
One thing that sparked my interest was it said it was a peg leg. Now why on earth would they make a HD with an open diff? I just assumed all 3/4 tons came with a posi. This blows.....
One thing that sparked my interest was it said it was a peg leg. Now why on earth would they make a HD with an open diff? I just assumed all 3/4 tons came with a posi. This blows.....
My '82 F250HD has a 4.10 open diff...My '97 has 3.55's and it's open as well. I would love to have a T-Loc in my '97. If you punch it from a stop, it just sits & spins until you let off. Can't wait until it snows.... probably won't be able to pull away from the curb!
#18
12-07-2010, 09:10 AM
More power is good, especially if it is just a cam swap. Now that my memory is slowly creeping back, brings me to another question. Is the 351 closely related to the 302? Reason I ask is I owned two 5.0 mustangs in the past and you could push some extra power just by bumping up the timing (I think to 14deg, but it has been 10+ yrs), open up the exhaust and ease up on the intake restrictions. It was worth like 12 to 15 horses.
As for the oil gauge, I got it loud and clear. I think I will leave it alone till spring, and may go with some Autometers. I have a Big Block Buick GS I had to rebuild twice and have sport comps that I read the whole time. Buicks have funny oiling systems this is why I had a panic on this Ford in the first place.
Onto the springs, found a place in town that may help me re-arch (I know bad sometimes) and then replace all of the bushings. I think this is where my lean came from, old springs. Really do not feel like dumping cash into a lift at this point. It may have a slight lift already due to some add leafs. I just assumed all F250's sat this high.
As for know what you exactly have, this thread could into a decoding post? I tried to decode my sticker but could not find all of the option buckets. One thing that sparked my interest was it said it was a peg leg. Now why on earth would they make a HD with an open diff? I just assumed all 3/4 tons came with a posi. This blows.....
As for the oil gauge, I got it loud and clear. I think I will leave it alone till spring, and may go with some Autometers. I have a Big Block Buick GS I had to rebuild twice and have sport comps that I read the whole time. Buicks have funny oiling systems this is why I had a panic on this Ford in the first place.
Onto the springs, found a place in town that may help me re-arch (I know bad sometimes) and then replace all of the bushings. I think this is where my lean came from, old springs. Really do not feel like dumping cash into a lift at this point. It may have a slight lift already due to some add leafs. I just assumed all F250's sat this high.
As for know what you exactly have, this thread could into a decoding post? I tried to decode my sticker but could not find all of the option buckets. One thing that sparked my interest was it said it was a peg leg. Now why on earth would they make a HD with an open diff? I just assumed all 3/4 tons came with a posi. This blows.....
You don't have to go to autometer gauges if you don't want to... You just need a 1/4 male to female brass 45* street (O'Reilly's has them), a 1978 oil pressure sender ($15), and a small piece of wire to jump the resistor on the back of your gauge cluster... $20 total...
As for the timing bump... Do a sixlitre tuneup...read the forum here: FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs
#19
12-07-2010, 01:41 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Beatrice, NE
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One thing I noticed, when cleaning the throttle body on my 5.8,the throttle blades would not open up to the full horizontal position. I had my son hold the gas pedal to the floor (engine off of course) and looked into the throttle bores to inspect the back sides of the blades. I expected to be able to see the bottom edge of the blades, both sides of the throttle shaft and the threaded ends of the blade screws sticking down through the throttle shaft. I was surprised when I could see the entire front surface area of the blades and could NOT see the edge of the blades, the back side of the throttle shaft or the ends of the screws! I would estimate that it lacked almost 10 degrees of rotation from being completely "wide open" (90* from vertical). I tried to open it farther by hand, but the throttle stop tab on the throttle shaft linkage was physically "bottomed out" against a casting boss on the throttle body. I took a pair of pliers and bent the throttle stop tab back about 1/8" until the blades were completely open. It made a very noticable difference in power at WOT. I suppose I should now adjust the TPS, but it looks like a pain to get to.
It may have just been my particular truck that had this issue, but it's still one of the fundamentals that a lot of people over look.
It may have just been my particular truck that had this issue, but it's still one of the fundamentals that a lot of people over look.
#20
12-30-2010, 12:28 AM
#22
12-30-2010, 12:47 AM
Well, it is OBDI. So I guess it's prob SD. Oh well. I've called the dealer on occasion and had asked about why these trucks are not OBDII. They told me it has to be OBDII since it was required on ALL 96 and newer. I will be going to the same dealer and have them show me where it is. Because my OBDI plug is in the engine bay near the firelall on the driver side.
J
J
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jus10
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
11-30-2014 08:49 PM
Cowboy_billythekid
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
9
06-16-2002 09:56 PM
