suspension lifts
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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suspension lifts
Questions:
I have a 92 F-150 SuperCab LB 4x4, 5.8L. I want to put a 4 inch suspension lift and 35x12.50x15 tires with 15x10 wheels. I'm gonna go with the skyjacker lift with longer radius arms. I read on this site too many times that drop down brackets make ride quality suffer. I am going to post before, during and after pictures as well. My questions are:
Do I have to have longer drive shafts (front or rear)?
On the rear drive shaft, since it is a two piece shaft, do I need to drop down the bearing block (where the shaft splits into two pieces) so as not to put too much of a bad angle on it?
How do I find out what gears I have?
What is TTB?
Thanks.
I have a 92 F-150 SuperCab LB 4x4, 5.8L. I want to put a 4 inch suspension lift and 35x12.50x15 tires with 15x10 wheels. I'm gonna go with the skyjacker lift with longer radius arms. I read on this site too many times that drop down brackets make ride quality suffer. I am going to post before, during and after pictures as well. My questions are:
Do I have to have longer drive shafts (front or rear)?
On the rear drive shaft, since it is a two piece shaft, do I need to drop down the bearing block (where the shaft splits into two pieces) so as not to put too much of a bad angle on it?
How do I find out what gears I have?
What is TTB?
Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 273
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From: San Antonio USA
suspension lifts
1.On my 94 Bronco I did not need longer driveshafts front or rear.
2.I am not sure about the bearing block lowering.
3.On you diff housing there should be a metal tag attached to one of the bolts that holds the cover on it has a code on it that tells you the gear ratio kinda like 88 355 which means 8.8 inch rear end and 3.55 gears.
4.TTB stands for Twin Traction Beam It is what Ford called its front axle setup on 4x4s between 1980 and 1996(I think the years are correct). Also known as a form of independent front suspension.
Hope this helps out a little.
2.I am not sure about the bearing block lowering.
3.On you diff housing there should be a metal tag attached to one of the bolts that holds the cover on it has a code on it that tells you the gear ratio kinda like 88 355 which means 8.8 inch rear end and 3.55 gears.
4.TTB stands for Twin Traction Beam It is what Ford called its front axle setup on 4x4s between 1980 and 1996(I think the years are correct). Also known as a form of independent front suspension.
Hope this helps out a little.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 335
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX
suspension lifts
DCSpecial, Yeti, jetjock and a few others are the folks to find on this board with a great deal of lift knowledge.
I'm not totally familiar with your year model, but generally, you will need to plan to shim the carrier bearing on the rear drive shaft to compensate for the drive angle. Usually, the lift kit will have an option for this. I think the ratio is like 1/2" shim per 2" of lift (?)
As for gearing, I know on the newer trucks there is an axle tag attached to the diff cover in the rear that should have the ratio on it. Also, your sticker on the trailing edge of your door should have an axle code that you can then go look up on the FAQ featured on this board to see what gears you have.
TTB stands for "twin traction beam" I think. It is basically Ford's IFS iteration of the Dana 50.
Some of the gurus may correct me, but I think the above is right.
[edit: marriedguy beat me to the TTB answer]
I'm not totally familiar with your year model, but generally, you will need to plan to shim the carrier bearing on the rear drive shaft to compensate for the drive angle. Usually, the lift kit will have an option for this. I think the ratio is like 1/2" shim per 2" of lift (?)
As for gearing, I know on the newer trucks there is an axle tag attached to the diff cover in the rear that should have the ratio on it. Also, your sticker on the trailing edge of your door should have an axle code that you can then go look up on the FAQ featured on this board to see what gears you have.
TTB stands for "twin traction beam" I think. It is basically Ford's IFS iteration of the Dana 50.
Some of the gurus may correct me, but I think the above is right.
[edit: marriedguy beat me to the TTB answer]
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
suspension lifts
You do not need to do anything to the driveshafts because you have a SC/LB, they are fine. If you had a short wheelbase (bronco or reg/SB F-150) you'd need some shaft mods. I highly suggest getting a 6" lift and not the 4". The 4" is used on 33s not 35s. The 35s will fit but is REAL tight, 6" is prefered. For the 35" tires you need to change the gears from whatever you have to 4.10s. If you don't want a 6" lift, get the 4" and 33's. 33's can also go on the 4.10 gears too. Changing the gears is very expensive, so keep that in mind. Parts are 550-600 bucks, plus whatever labor is, labor is the big kicker.
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suspension lifts
I just checked and couldn't identify any type of tag on either of them. The front axle has a big 44 stamped on it and the tag on the door says axle "19". The truck is completely stock.
I guess I'll go with the 4" and 33's so's I don't have to swap gears. I believe that would be a little above my mechanic skills.
Thanks.
Oh by the way, what type of gas mileage should I expect? Stock with 235/75/15's, 351, auto w/overdrive. Right now I'm getting around 11 mpg, which kinda sucks, I think. I get a little miss at around 1250-1500 rpms. I put in new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, which were in bad need of replacement. Also, on the connector post on the coil there was some corrosion and I cleaned it up. Still getting that miss at 1250-1500 rpms, though. Any suggestions?
I guess I'll go with the 4" and 33's so's I don't have to swap gears. I believe that would be a little above my mechanic skills.
Thanks.
Oh by the way, what type of gas mileage should I expect? Stock with 235/75/15's, 351, auto w/overdrive. Right now I'm getting around 11 mpg, which kinda sucks, I think. I get a little miss at around 1250-1500 rpms. I put in new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, which were in bad need of replacement. Also, on the connector post on the coil there was some corrosion and I cleaned it up. Still getting that miss at 1250-1500 rpms, though. Any suggestions?
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Junior User
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suspension lifts
Mustang,
On your old truck (the red and gold one) how much lift and what size tires did you have?
On your old truck (the red and gold one) how much lift and what size tires did you have?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
suspension lifts
I had 4" of lift and 32" tires.
33" tires will still require you to change gears. It's not something that needs to be done in order to drive it, but you're power will be soooo bad, and you'll hardly use OD. You'd be at about 1650RPMs at 65mph in OD, way too low. So if you got 33's, you'd also need to swap gears. I have 32's on 3.55 gears and it's already slow enough.
33" tires will still require you to change gears. It's not something that needs to be done in order to drive it, but you're power will be soooo bad, and you'll hardly use OD. You'd be at about 1650RPMs at 65mph in OD, way too low. So if you got 33's, you'd also need to swap gears. I have 32's on 3.55 gears and it's already slow enough.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Homestead, FL
suspension lifts
Hi- pull the cover off the rear, count the teeth and change your gear oil. The TTB is like a fully open pair of scissors. You don't shim the carrier bearings for ideal shaft angles, you shim the spring pads. If you have 3.55's the 33 inch tires aren't thaaaat bad. Even with 35's my truck accelerates just as fast as any of the ricebox's around town. Overdrive is a rarity though. I'd put 5.13's in it though given overdrive and the money. I should have geared down when I had the differentials out, but that would have cost me what I paid for the truck. Wait, the last 3 sets of tires cost me that...damn damn damn
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
suspension lifts
33s on 3.55 isn't gonna kill you but, it's not comfortable at all. You don't need to open the cover and count the teeth. Just use the axle code on the door jam, someone can decode it for you if you make a thread for it. Trust me, if you go from 235s on 3.55 gear to a 33" tire on 3.55s, you'll hate it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,187
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From: CT
suspension lifts
I have 32's on 3.08 gears with the M5OD 5spd and it sucks, i can't use OD and i can do 80mph in 4th at 2500rpm. 35's on 3.55 gears is going to be about the same as what i have. I doubt the 35's will fit on the 4" without bumper shiming and a tiny bit of fender trimming. 33's on 3.55 should be fine in your case, your going to take a power hit but it will be driveable.
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Junior User
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suspension lifts
Guys,
Thanks for all your great advice! I believe I might just stay simple for now. I saw a great looking truck in the pictorial where the guy has only put Moog leveling coils on front and done nothing to the back, but he has 32x11.50x15's mounted on stock rims and it looks great. I think for now that's what I might do.
The tires he had are the same ones I was wanting. They're Bridgestone Dueler M/T's. I tried to email him and ask him where to get those leveling springs, but got no reply. Does anyone else know where I can get them and how much they are?
Thanks.
Thanks for all your great advice! I believe I might just stay simple for now. I saw a great looking truck in the pictorial where the guy has only put Moog leveling coils on front and done nothing to the back, but he has 32x11.50x15's mounted on stock rims and it looks great. I think for now that's what I might do.
The tires he had are the same ones I was wanting. They're Bridgestone Dueler M/T's. I tried to email him and ask him where to get those leveling springs, but got no reply. Does anyone else know where I can get them and how much they are?
Thanks.