My father got a DP tuner for his '02 and we had been having issues with it intermittently stalling, so we took the chip off the truck for a week and no stalling all week. We figured there must have been an issue with the prep work on the PCM and that we had taken too much of the tin off the contacts so today we resoldered the connection. WHen we put the chip back in no power to the switcher. Tried making sure the chip was seated, etc. Still no power to the switcher. Checked all the wires for continuity on the control cable, all were good.Decided to put the chip on my truck and just see if it would power up, nope. Starting thinking the chip needed to go back, but I decided to put my switcher on the chip on his truck and bam, the truck fired right up. Cool, now we know we have a switcher problem, so we will get with Diane on Monday and I'm sure the problem will be resolved.

Hook everything back up on my truck go to leave and notice that even though I am in number 5 on my switcher which should be 80E, my truck feels mighty slow, I decide to switch up to 140 aggressive and uh oh, my truck dies. Turns out my truck will run on all the odd numbers but it seems to only be the stock tune no matter which number is on the switcher and all the even numbers the truck dies and won't restart until I put it on an odd number.So now I am stuck like this until I can get in touch with Jody or Diane on Monday.

 

Dang Jason, I've never heard of any thing like that. Send a PM to James, Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: DP-TunerTech.

 

I have James cell number Jason I can call him for you

 

call DPTUner, they will fix u up

 

I have a problem since I have the old school chip type with the rotary switch. The switch goes bad and the program defaults to whatever is in position one. That's high idle for me. Kind of a pain. My way of fixing it is to kick on the parking brake and release it a few times and the vibration seems to fix it. One of these days I'm going to get one of the fancy new ones but it's just not a priority.

 

If you could call him and let him know what I have going on, that would be great Jim.

 

Just send Diane an email now. She'll answer the email when she sees it. Probably before Monday.

Now for the real question. Did your Dad steal your switch so he could play or did he let you keep it?

 

Hello,

I need a pm telling me the following so I can look up some info to get more info on your situation.

1. What name was your Fathers ordered under?
2. What name was yours ordered under?
3. Which chip do you have and which chip does your Father have?
4. Are your "switchers" the same? For example, both LED or both rotary?

James

 

Jason, you should be able to remove the chip and run the truck until you get the switcher fixed. I'm sure it will take a few days in shipping.

 

Just for the record, I have already spoken on the phone with James, but for future searches, the answers to the last two questions above are both F5
's and both LED switchers.

 

Oh yeah Bob, we have been running my Dad's for a week without his chip and now mine is running but seems to be stuck in stock and no-start. If we can't fix it by re-programming, I will remove the chip on mine and send both switchers down to DP for replacement or reprogramming.

 

I'd guess that swapping your switcher on to your Dad's chip did something strange to the switcher. Can you "reset" the switcher, like when you add a tune, etc.? I think there are directions for doing that on www.dptuner.com. Shouldn't hurt anything, but getting a solid baseline for troubleshooting is always good.

 

Yeah, James emailed them and then went through it with me and I tried but either I'm not coordinated enough, or the switcher is messed up because we couldn't get it to reprogram. it will go all the way up to program 9 right now, so I am not sure what if any effect reprogramming will have on it, but i am going to try it again in the am and see if I can get it right, if not, James assured me they will get it corrected on both our trucks, which is what we all have come to expect from the great people at DP.

 

Jason, Could the extra solder on Dads PCM have spread the contacts on the switcher too much, and not making good contact on your PCM, just thinking

 

Maybe try the "cold boot" method - i.e. disconnect both batteries for 30 minutes+ and turn on your lights to make sure any residual battery voltage gets used up. Then plug everything back in and give it a whirl.