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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #16  
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manuals are hard to shift when u are mudding. you are way more likely to over rev your engine and blow the radiator hose or blow out the radiator(overheating) and then (a thrown rod).
They make rev limiters for a reason. I've seen many a blown engine from an automatic that didn't shift when it was supposed to. I've also seen many an automatic that was supposedly "built" bulletproof that ends up being a glorified paper weight. Of course it's your truck and you can do whatever you want. Just ask yourself, if you've already made up your mind, why ask for other people's opinion?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:53 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by USArmyTaterness
ok well for that we could easily get a cam rebuild the heads and probably put a decent set of headers or carb and intake on
well i like that idea. im not sure what cam is in my dads pulling truck but it sounds awesome with his headers. it idles so rough its amazing. im in love with that sound. something like this

******** width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7ZSfD_gbCfk...</param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7ZSfD_gbCfk?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed>*********>
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by USArmyTaterness
ok well for that we could easily get a cam rebuild the heads and probably put a decent set of headers or carb and intake on
well i like that idea. im not sure what cam is in my dads pulling truck but it sounds awesome with his headers. it idles so rough its amazing. im in love with that sound. something like this

YouTube - Big block chev 454 with choppy idle
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #19  
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this sounds about right

YouTube - ford 4x4 with 351 w
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #20  
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Just make sure you understand that if you go too aggressive on a camshaft to "just get the sound" and you couple it with an automatic you will have to put such a sloppy torque converter in there that you will be shooting any chance of fuel economy down the drain.

You can get a good sound with a relatively mild cam and still get good manners if you couple it with the right exhaust.

Also keep in mind that if you go with a very aggressive cam you need a set of heads / intake / and exhaust to take full advantage of it along with a bottom end that can take the RPM. Do you have the money to rebuild the bottom end to turn 6500 RPM so you can actually make some power with a cam that aggressive?

Please don't think I'm trying to rain on your parade, I'm not. What I'm trying to do is show you that for everything you gain, you typically have to give up SOMETHING. Many an under-educated (I didn't say stupid) person has put together a very poor combination of parts and they have given up more than they have gained in the long haul and the vehicle has ended up being garbage.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:09 PM
  #21  
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From: Schweinfurt Germany
Holley 0-80457S - Holley Model 4160 Non-Adjustable Float Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
carb 279.95

Edelbrock 2181 - Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds - Overview - SummitRacing.com
intake manifold 199.95

Milodon 45662-8 - Milodon Street Stainless Valves - Overview - SummitRacing.com
intake valves 94.95

Milodon 45667-8 - Milodon Street Stainless Valves - Overview - SummitRacing.com
exhaust 88.95

COMP Cams 916-16 - COMP Cams Valve Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
springs 130.95

COMP Cams 1442-16 - COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms - Overview - SummitRacing.com
rocker arms 165.95

COMP Cams 35-230-3 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com
cam 129.95

COMP Cams 832-16 - COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Lifters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
lifters 81.95

grand total 952.70


Look at it this way no mean to discourage you 16 year olds have done projects that cost more than I make in six months but in order to get something out of it you have to put money into it A hardcore cam will run 400$ decent headers for it 600$ intake manifold 300$ carb 4-600$ Heads 6-900$ each.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:15 PM
  #22  
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My current project is going to run me 12,000$ for my engine but it going to be an all out motor. The kicker is now I will need to buy a better tranny set up that will cost me anywher between 6 and 8 thousand. Then I am going to have to put stronger gears in it. A better charging system to keep up better coolant yadda yadda yadda. What it comes down to is it is all connected.

Build what you can and later when you are a bit older and have some money to burn build a monster.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #23  
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How do you think this sounds?

http://home.insightbb.com/~nathan.pl...en_headers.mp3
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
sounds good.whats all on there?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by USArmyTaterness
My current project is going to run me 12,000$ for my engine but it going to be an all out motor. The kicker is now I will need to buy a better tranny set up that will cost me anywher between 6 and 8 thousand. Then I am going to have to put stronger gears in it. A better charging system to keep up better coolant yadda yadda yadda. What it comes down to is it is all connected.

Build what you can and later when you are a bit older and have some money to burn build a monster.
I think i am going to start with headers and straight pipe. then go from there.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #26  
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That is a CHEVY LT1 (350 cubic inch) and the GM Performance Parts LT4 Hot Cam, what most "performance" people would call a baby, or a joke of a camshaft. It just happens to be recorded there running through open headers instead of a full exhaust. Straight pipes and no mufflers would sound similar.

I went with a cam that was tailored to my engine's actual operating RPM range. Turns out that it sounds wicked, makes hell yeah power (110hp over stock with my ported heads and headers) and still gets really good economy. People laugh at this cam because it's made by GM.

I know several people who decide instead to go with the Comp Cams CC306 camshaft. It has a longer duration, higher lift, and tighter lobe separation angle than the GM so people think it should make more power. It does, sorta. You put a CC306 in an identical engine and it will make about 5-10 more horsepower at the peak of 6500 RPM's. It would make even more at 7000 or 7500. Thing is the bottom end of these engines, unless it has been thoroughly rebuilt with very expensive components won't even think about turning 7000, let alone 7500. At the same time their engine is making 5-10 more HP at it's peak, it is making 5-10 less horsepower over the rest of the power band. The result, if you were to look at a dyno graph and run the numbers is that there is less area under the curve, which results in overall LESS horsepower. It also won't idle for crap and gets about 3/4 of the gas mileage of the Hot Cam.

Turns out that the LT4 Hot Cam was designed by GM specifically for their particular engine. They did their homework and it works wonderfully.

So what all does this mean to you? It means that you can get a good sound AND get good power AND maintain some economy. Thing is that cams that do this are typically few and far between while there are PLENTY out there that will give you a good sound but turn the truck into a complete basket case. If you don't know what duration, lift, and lobe separation are and how they relate to engine performance, then you need to do a LOT of research before you just pick a cam out of a book and throw it in your truck!

The few people I know who did a little research and picked appropriate parts have killer cars that they absolutely love. Unfortunately MOST people I know just throw parts together and end up with junk that they sell to somebody else. It can be a very fun and rewarding hobby, but do yourself a favor and do your homework.
 
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