Started working on the 53. Went to the local parts store and bought a C-4 TRans mount. Had to flip the crossmember and drill a couple new holes, First problem solved. While under i spotted new steel gas tank, Unfortunitly no straps or insulaters. Ordered them. Question since it is after market how can i tell if the sender is 6 or 12 volts. Don't see any volt markings on it. Thanks

 

Wow did this post slip through the grinder fast!

Well, that's a good question. But, lets back up a sec and ask a few questions.

First is your truck electrical system OEM 6 volt or been converted to 12 volt.

Has it ever been in working order?

Last question, do you have any kind of voltage reducer on the back of your gas gauge - a little cube mounted some where with a wire going to the gauges or a little "stint" looking device on the gauge itself?

Here's the bottom line. It's VERY unlikely that it is 12 volt. If it fits the tank, then there's a 95% chance it's a stock replacement. That said, if someone spent the $130 and got a 12 volt OEM style sender for the truck, I believe they come only in conversion kits (like at LMC) and a 12 volt gauge would have come with it.

The sending unit MUST match the gauge in voltage and resistance range.

So if you do have a 12 volt electrical system, and this is a 12 volt sender, I would assume that the 12 volt gauge got installed with it since the kits for the 54 tanks they come together. 56 was the only year in our truck realm that actually had 12 volt gauges stock. Starting in 57 they used 6 volt and reduced them again until - I don't know, probably the mid to late 60s sometime.

Here's the thing though. If it is a stock 6 volt sender and you still have the stock 6 volt gauge, you will need to reduce it for use with 12 volts. You do that by installing a voltage reducer on the power in line - very easy to do.

You can always take it out, hook it to your gauge and test it - using a couple "AA" batteries (4) connected end to end. If with that 6 volts the needle swings full range when you move the float arm up or down, it's all 6 volt. I suspect it is anyway.

 

Thanks Julie, Forgot about the battery test. It is probably a 6 volt unit. No guages were ever hooked up on the stock panel so when i make my harness i'll put a reducer in. That being said i put several 12 volt senders in boats. There fairly cheap, So why if the plate fits you could not use one of those? You measure tank dept and adjust sender lenght accordingly

 

Whatcha mean by that, huh? I saw the post, but under my probation order I’m not allowed to responded to newbie’s questions (ESPECIALLY ABOUT FUEL SENDERS) . You done did good though, it’s been five weeks (longggggggg time in the fte world) and you handled like the pro that you are, good on ya mate!

Sending unit ohm chart available upon your request.

 

Sure would like to have an ohm chart for senders. I put a few 65 and 66 T-Birds together and they use constant voltage regulators for the guages [cvr]. 12 volts in 5-6 out. i have a couple around i'm thinking one of them would work if i go with the stock guages. I love using my old free stock if i can. bsbbob@optonline.net

 

Yeah, it's actually easier to adjust the electrics than to make an adaptor plate for physical fit.

Wordt case is it's 12 volt and you have to buy a 12 volt gauge from LMC, or replace the sender with a stock 6 volt unit and reduce the voltage with the CVR.

Here's the table for the sender resistance range: