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So I was crawling under my truck today installing my shocks and stabilizer. I noticed some anti-freeze dripping on the crossmember. It wasn't leaking bad, but I could see it dripping down the lower hose where it attaches to the water pump. After I was done with my shocks I noticed it dried up. I checked the coolent level and it was fine. I took the truck for a test drive to see how the suspension was and had no issues. It ran just under 200 degrees. When I pulled up out front I let it idle and I took some pictures of the truck. When I got back in it (5-7 minutes) it was running about 220-230 drgrees. That has never happened before. It has always run under 200. Is this something to worry about or it normal to run a little hotter when its just sitting and idling. Only reason i'm wondering is because I saw those drips earlier.
Did you check the level again after you noticed it running hot? Sure sounds like you're losing coolant somewhere, you need to track that down. A cooling system pressure test will help you pinpoint the source of the leak, though I'd take a good look at the water pump first. Grab the fan and wiggle it to see if there's any play in the pump, and check the vent hole on the bottom of the pump snout to see if there are any traces of coolant that have leaked out. A water pump that's just starting to go bad can leak sporadically like that.
I did check the coolant level after that and it was fine. I also checked it the next day and i couldn't find a leak anymore. I checked the water pump and there is no play in it. I was working on the front end. I wonder if it was leaking because it was jacked up? I need to run it again and see if I have an over heating problem. I'm going to take it for a ride now and see what happens.
Okay just took it for a good ride. While driving it's between 190-200. Which is normal. I stopped at let it idol for almost 10 minutes. The temp went to 210, but no higher.I also checked for coolant leaks and none showing. What I noticed was, while it was idoling it will periodically go from 900 rpms to 1200 to 1000. If I tap the gas it will go back down to 900 rpms. Any thoughs on that? I disconnected the choke a while ago, because I really don't need one. It's always nice and warm in FL and I never have problems starting it. Not sure why the rps are changing. When I'm driving and I come to a light I usually have to tap the gas to get the rps to come down or it will idol at around 1200-1100....?
first check your carb throttle linkage. make sure your springs are good on carb. Also check you distributor bolt and make sure tight, not moving around. Possible coolant leak. another possible problem on temp is your timing is moving and your firing the next cylinder. rotor phasing situations. the only way to check is to have a old distributor cap and drill a whole in cap at #1 or the easiest one to check and install on distributor and use a timing light and shine down into whole drilled so you can see the actual position of rotor to distributor cap alignment while its running. If you engine has a lot of miles timing chain wear is usually the problem or custom cam or cam cut wrong at end wear it fits on gear. MSD makes a phaseable rotor just for these application for a MSD distrib. Also if a vacume distrib it could be sticking. things to check. Now you have a bunch of stuff to worry about and mess with. hope I could help!!
if running a 4barrel carb need to make sure tight at carb bolts. Once I didn't torque my bolts evenly and caused my secondary's to bind up. It would stay open just a little to affect my idle. This was a mechanical seconday carb but never know with any 4 barrel carb. more stuff to check on carb. also check on vacume hoses for cracks and leaks which will cause more rpms. manifold related hoses or if a brake booster hose possible situation. i think I covered everything. good luck.