Get this... the battery had ran down on the truck so I took it out and took it to Advance Auto to have them charge it for me. While there I thought, what the heck and bought a thing of Bar's Stop Leak Head Gasket, a can of Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner and a new Motorcraft plug. Came home, cleaned the MAF, put the Bar's in and installed the new plug. Fired it up and no more mis... now, it may start missing again tomorrow, but as of this moment it is running as good as new... well as new as you can expect for 200,6XX miles can be.

Thanks for all the suggestions/input and I will keep you posted on the long term results.

Also, thanks for the link with the removal guide!

 

was reading over post and wonder how you do a leak test at the intake?

 

So creeker, I m having a similar problem, cylinders 3 and 6 missing badly. Did the bars contiue to work? did you ever need to replace the intake gasket?

 

possible computer problems or ignition control module

 

I had this same problem. Try changing the fuel sending unit. Your truck is getting fuel but not the amoung that it needs. For the sending unit to be fixed it about 500 because you are going to want to change your fuel pump also

 

just finished pulling upper intake and injectors. All injectors are at 15 ohms spec is 11 - 18. Still thinking leak. Lower intake won't release, so maybe air tight? Fuel rail gasket to lower has some small cracks, various locations including around 3 and 6 cylinders, there also seems to be some blockage from the gasket. And there is carbon build up on the lip of the gasket at 3 and 6.

Going to replace fuel rail gasket and injector o-rings. Can't seem to get the right side valve cover off without pulling the AC compressor; any ideas?

 

wouldn't this effect more than just 1 cylinder or 2 cylinders?

 

i have spent $1000+ on plugs, plugs wires, ignition coils, fuel pump, fuel filter(s), catylitic converter, injectors, seafoam, crank sensor, battery, o2 sensors, and fuel lines. Its currently in the shop again! does anyone have an idea on what it might be...? im haveing the air flow sensor cleaned and having bars put in it. if anyone can help please reply. thank you

 

possible vacum line

 

Hi: try to check the camshaft synchronizer assembly that is correctly installed. Make sure you have a syncro positioning tool. Remove the camshaft position sensor. Set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degree top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke.Standing in front of the engine measure and mark the centerline of the engine to use it as reference guide. Insert the synchronizer assembly (w/tool) in to the block aimed 75 degree counterclockwise from the centerline of the engine. Then rotate the tool clockwise slightly to engage the iol pump intermediate shaft. Continue the downward motion, twisting the tool lightly until the syncronizer gear engage the camshaft gear. when is full engage the syncronizer arrow will be pointed rearward 33 to 45 degrees counterclockwise off the engine centerline. After I check that in my 1995 ford ranger 3.0 the misfire problem was corrected. Check the correct degrees on your 4.0 that is diference