Live on a warm Island and have a 2003 F250 7.3 in our watersport company. Truck starts fine but the moment I start driving when engine is cold it feels and sounds like it running on 6 cilinders and shuts of. Changed injector nr 8 and all the O-rings on the other injectors, Truck drives fine 1 month later same problem again. Could anybody help me out?
When I leave engine iddle for about 20 minutes truck works perfect.
I'm new at this form thanks for your time guys

 

Could be a lot of things. Can you provide any other details? Is the check engine light on?

 

Not rubbing it in, but again, another reason to have fuel and HPOP pressure gauges. I need them too but don't have the money atm :-P

 

Sheldon thx for you reply man. No check engine light is not on. Fuel filter is clean and pump seems to be working fine. Little white smoke when engine is cold.Changed all the O-rings on 8 injectors but my mechanic said they looked like they where in the store quit some time were a little sticky. Could this cause trouble? What other details would help you? Thanks again man

 

Have you change out the famous CPS sensor yet ? Have you had the fault code read ?

 

It sounds like you don't have any problem getting the engine to turn over and fire up initially, so it sounds like you have sufficient juice from the battery and that your high pressure oil pump is healthy enough to provide the pressure required to start the engine.

The problem can be broken down into three categories: fuel delivery, electrical or sensor issues.

Fuel delivery issues are usually an inability of the electric fuel pump on the frame rail to provide sufficient pressure and the two primary causes for this seem to be either a failing fuel pump or obstruction of the fuel pickup in the tank due to the accumulation of debris. (There are other problems that can cause a drop in fuel pressure, too, but these are the most common.) The "quick" test for this is to monitor fuel pressure at the filter on top of the engine or at the duel rail on one of the heads. Search for something like "fuel pressure test" on this forum and you'll see plenty of methods for testing fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is close to 50 psi and remains there or goes a bit higher while the engine is running, your problem is not likely to be related to fuel delivery.

The most common electrical problem associated with the symptoms you describe is the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH). This is relatively easy to check and fix, but it does involve taking the valve covers off to fix it. Here's a very good recent thread about this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html.

The sensor category generally turns up CPS, IPC or IPR. The IPR isn't really a sensor, it works in a feedback loop with the IPC to regulate the pressure developed by the HPOP to actually inject the fuel into the cylinders. While it's not definitive, if the tach registers RPMs during cranking, the CPS may not be the culprit. Looking at the IPC/IPR combo is more difficult and requires the use of a good scanner like Autoenginuity, but you can do a physical check of the IPC by disconnecting it to see if there is any oil in the connector. If there is, the IPC should be replaced.

Another thing to consider: you could have more than one issue but dividing your investigation into the three categories and eliminating identified problems in each should help to keep you from going nuts. Also, I arranged them in this order because without adequate fuel delivery, electrical and sensor issues aren't gonna matter much.

Then make sure your electrical stuff (particularly UVCH, but look for chafing on the harness where it comes close to valve covers, etc.) is intact. The sensors may be perfect but the engine isn't going to run well if the signals aren't distributed.

It occurs to me that, when you replaced the injector o-rings, you might have "casually" or accidentally tightened up the UVCH connector that is known to cause problems, allowing the engine to run fine until the connector vibrated out again. I sure hope that's the case.

For definitive IPC/IPR I've copied a really great piece I ran across from an earlier thread. I don't know the folks involved in putting this together, but it's a jewel:

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its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

Hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP PSI and ICP Duty Cycle %. while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

Good luck. BTW: Welcome to FTE! There are plenty of folks on this forum with a lot more experience than I have. Do some searches or look at threads that sound like the problems may resemble yours. They will teach you a tremendous amount and help you get your problems straightened out. Just stick with it and let us know how it turns out.

 

I think you have injectors problem. How many miles on the tuck? in 200s?

 

When mine did that exact same thing, it was low on oil. The oil that was there was due to be changed too. U probably have checked it but might be worth looking at. When i let it run until it was almost in normal range, I did not have a problem either.

One of the guys here said oil quality/level problem which I did not htink was the issue at the time. It turned out not to have been changed like I thought it had been.It was supposed to have had oil changed two weeks earlier but did not and was 6 qts low on oil.

 

Oil could do it (mostly do to low level), but it would do even when engine is hot and even while driving. But looking in to it is the cheapest start.

 

Bad injectors are a possibility. White smoke usually means unburned fuel and worn injectors can cause the truck to run like crap until it gets warm and the internal tolerances tighten up. What caused you to have #8 injector replaced in the first place? When you say the truck dies, does it bog down and quit or does it die like flipping a switch?

Since there really isn't any such thing as a cheap injector problem, the first thing you need to do is some free troubleshooting. Check into the oil and UVCH issues as suggested above and post back. As was mentioned above, how old is the CPS? They can cause intermittent problems.

Is there anyone local to you who can scan the truck for codes? If you're responsible for maintaining the truck, you might want to invest (and it REALLY would be an investment) in something like Auto Enginuity . Just few minutes of monitoring the high pressure oil system and a cylinder contribution test and you could probably crack this problem wide open.

 

where does the hpop pressure gauge connect?

 

Thanks Guy's !! looks like I have some homework tonight!! Thanks again will keep you updated!

 

Be sure to report back on what you find that fixes the problem..

 

Hey guy's. 4 weeks ago we filled about 2 gallons of oil in the truck. No oilmarks on my floor and no smoke. Tonight we discovered oil was very low. Put about 1,5 gallon of 15W40 in and truck runs like new!! I know USER eetalt wrote "If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles". Any other way's of the oil getting away or recommendations to fix this problem.Would thicker oil be a temporary solution? Really hope I can keep this truck but if cost get to big afraid will have to sell my baby
Thanks again guy's for your time really helping me out

 

What weight oil are u using? Was 2 gallons all u put in after an oil change or was that just to top it off.