Jello in coolant
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Joined: Apr 2007
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Jello in coolant
Well my egr cooler finally blew. Lots of white smoke and coolant in the intake. I pulled the egr valve and found it all wet. So I ordered a new egr cooler and an oil cooler kit. I started tearing everything apart and when I opened up the housing by the blue hose (between the egr cooler and the oil cooler), it was full of a jelly-like mess. I had recently had the local Ford dealer do a flush. Actually they did it twice. The first time it was a drain and refill. I complained that I paid for a flush and expected more than that, so they did it again, this time using a pump to remove about half of the total capacity. Prior to the service, I added 2 qts. of the Ford VC-9 and drove the truck for about 1 hour. When they did the service, both times they added BG Cooling System Cleaner and BG Super Cool. Are these products OK for the 6.0? They did use the Ford Gold coolant. If the BG products are OK, where did the jello come from?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Its all the gunk the VC9 worked loose and oil and coolant mixing in your broken cooler I would guess. Likely your going to have to reflush everything after its all together, oil and coolant, and your going to want to just use VC9. I think the BG Cooling System cleaner and super cool are not necessarily safe. I dont know this for sure, but stick to VC9 and Ford gold coolant in my opinion.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,714
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When oil and water mix it makes a nasty slimy mess. Better change the oil cooler,egr cooler and replace the radiator. You need to get the crap out of the block too so you don't just plug the new parts up! Also if it were me I'd remove the hoses and make sure they are all clean or just replace them. I saw one guys truck where the hoses were filled up halfway with gunk from oil and coolant mixing! Do it right the first time its cheaper in the long run!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
Using a pump to remove about half the capacity is not a flush. So they left 1/2 a dose of VC9, BG Cooling System Cleaner and BG Super Cool in your cooling system?
I think they should be paying for whatever is broken, because it may be very likely that having that stuff left in there caused the problem.
I think they should be paying for whatever is broken, because it may be very likely that having that stuff left in there caused the problem.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or untill water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling syatem is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or untill water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling syatem is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
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