Yup, kept bleeding it until it was only fluid. No bubbles at all.

However, I've decided to just replace the clutch anyway. I don't know how long that clutch has been in there and it would be my luck that it's the factory clutch w/114k on it and I'd have to replace it soon anyway. So, this way I will have a new clutch and all of the components will be new, so there will be no question after that on what the deal is. If there are issues after that, then it's the synchros in the trans and it is what it is. I'll just have to deal with it from there. Only thing I won't replace right now is the master cylinder. I can always do that later, if I have to, because I wouldn't have to pull the trans to get to it. :-)

Found out from the dealer (prior to reading your post, Lazy K) that I'm supposed to use Mercon V in it.

So, when I do the clutch (on Mon/Tue), I'll just put in some Mobil 1 ATF. I've read it's just about 3 qts, so won't be too horribly expensive. (the Royal Purple I bought last time was REALLY expensive)

 

UPDATE

Ok, I replaced the clutch/slave cylinder/trans fluid/pilot bearing on Mon/Tue.

The fluid was a dark, dark red, almost brown. Ya, not good. There was some blackish/grayish sludge on the magnet of the drain plug, but only a few metal shavings (what I would consider fairly normal for a trans with 115k on it).

I'm guessing the clutch was a Ford replacement because it was a LuK, (according to the pressure plate) but it looked pretty darn new. Wasn't used much at all. And I could tell someone had the trans out before.

However, the flywheel looked like crap. Slight gouges in it in certain spots and was burned all over. Not good. So, I had it turned, of course. They said the flywheel looked like this < from outside in. So the inside was thinner than the outside was. It wasn't level. I figured, "Bingo!" there's probably my clutch disengagement issue.

So, I put everything back together and bled the clutch, of course. Its better, but not great. Maybe I'm expecting too much out of a trans with 115k on it.

Admittedly, the clutch feel & clutch release point are MUCH better on this clutch. I'd say it releases midway instead of at the top. It also grabs much better when being released, so it feels more solid. It doesn't grind like it did before (going into first and possibly third), but is still "hesitant" to go into first gear. I mean, it's not major, but you still have to push it past a certain hesitation point to get it into gear (in first only).

But it does work better and I've been driving it a day or two now. I don't think they ever touched the flywheel or the fluid in the trans when they changed the clutch. I put Valvoline Mercon V in it because that's all the parts store had (didn't have Mobil 1 ATF) and I didn't have time to run around to 3 different stores to get all this stuff. I also refilled and bled the system with DOT4 brake fluid.

So, I guess we'll see how it goes from here. Maybe the synchros in first and third are still toast but the new fluid is helping, I don't know.

Oh, and as a side note, I HAD to turn the trans 90* when taking it out or putting it in if you leave the factory exhaust intact (per the service manual instructions). Boy was that ever fun putting it back up there like that! You had to turn the trans 90* so the shifter boss wouldn't hit the top of the tunnel, yet you couldn't go forward enough to drop the tail shaft past the exhaust, so you had to turn it 90*, push it back further onto the exhaust enough so that the bellhousing would clear the pressure plate, then lower the front past it and then pull it forward off of the exhaust to clear the tail shaft to lower it completely. Ohhhh, what a joy. There was a lot of swearing when I was trying to put the trans back in like that (tail shaft first onto the exhaust and then raise the front).

Anyway, thanks to everyone for their help and info. Much appreciated. I guess I'll have to look into a rebuilt trans at some point.

Happy Holidays!
Mat

 

Keep in mind that this is a truck, the transmissions are heavier duty than those in a Mustang or similar so will never shift like one.
From your description it sounds to me like problem solved (hopefully).

 

Lazy K...I was wondering about that. I didn't exactly expect it to be a major performance trans or anything like a Cobra/Mustang trans would be, but just figured it would be a bit smoother shifting. Then again, I've never really driven a full size truck with a stick before.

The rest of the gears feel pretty good actually, it's just first is difficult to shift into. But it is what it is for now, so I'll just drive it and see what goes. If it starts to act up again, then I know the synchros are going bad and I'll either have to rebuild it or get a new one.

But it does feel much better and even the clutch grabs harder when letting out the pedal and the pedal feel/position is much better. So, even though I'm probably whining for nothing, it really does feel better than it was before.

 

I too have a F150 with troubles going into gear. I do not have 3rd or 4th gear. If I am going to changethe sync rings for 3 and 4 should I also change any of the other rings? 6 in all.???

 

If you are already going into the trans to change 2 synch rings, I would just change them all. No sense in not doing it.

 

Thanks, Thats what I figured too. Just wanted to know I wasnt spending extra money in vane. Now all I have to do is find the 1,2,4 ring. People I work with cant find one. I found R,5, and 3rd...must be a part that is purchased more than manufactured.