pulling crank pulley
pulling crank pulley
Aight so the book I have on the FE aint worth wiping my *** with!!!
whats the best way to unbolt the crank pulley so I can put a puller on it and get to my timing chain..
I figure I could put the truck in gear and block the wheels, but I need to keep the engine at TDC to do the timing chain and to put everything back togather...
I was a little kid the last time I got to do a timing chain and dont rember much, and since then most of my experience has come from small VW engines.
Any good sugestions?
whats the best way to unbolt the crank pulley so I can put a puller on it and get to my timing chain..
I figure I could put the truck in gear and block the wheels, but I need to keep the engine at TDC to do the timing chain and to put everything back togather...
I was a little kid the last time I got to do a timing chain and dont rember much, and since then most of my experience has come from small VW engines.
Any good sugestions?
Just unbolt it it does not matter if you move the crank when doing a timing chain as you will have to realign the cam to crank anyway. Just make sure when reinstalling it both dots on the timing gears are pointing dead on at each other.
Uhmm err ahh
What book did you "obtain"? Not sure of an FE manual lacking "legible data on this subject". Not sure of the year you plan on tyinkering with but be aware, "as stated in all the books that come to mind" the timing set is with or without a C washer. Newer sets have the spacing built into the gear. If you install a later gear set with older parts you chance a cam/lifter alignment issue that will result in havoc.
Pulley removal = 4 bolts and main bolt. Then puller for pulley, then crank spacer. Then cover and splash tin ?
Pulley removal = 4 bolts and main bolt. Then puller for pulley, then crank spacer. Then cover and splash tin ?
I have a Haynes book... Iv just found that it is rather bleak, and could be a little more indepth with things... But it did get me through doin a head job int the truck!!!
The engine is a 74 360 with a 428 crank in it of unknown year, and I dunno what cam was used when the motor was built.
the timing chain I bought is the Edlebrock performer link, 7808.
The engine is a 74 360 with a 428 crank in it of unknown year, and I dunno what cam was used when the motor was built.
the timing chain I bought is the Edlebrock performer link, 7808.
You should have gotten a timing set for a pre-1972 FE engine (352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427 or 428). That way the cam will be timed straight up and not 4° retarded to make the emission nazies happy. It does not matter what crank is in what FE block, the chain will fit.
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Lmfao No emission nazies hear in wyoming!!!
So dose it matter what cam I have (early or late model) if this timing chain will work ok or not???
Just curious what are the advantages or dis advantages would 4* retarded have over straight up timing???
So dose it matter what cam I have (early or late model) if this timing chain will work ok or not???
Just curious what are the advantages or dis advantages would 4* retarded have over straight up timing???
The feds mandated the 4° retard so all timing sets for the 1972 and later engines had it. Any FE timing set DOES NOT care what crank or cam you have. It supposedly improved NOX emissions at the expense of power and mpg.
Yah I just found the Installation instructions hiding in the box!!! Sorry I tend to forget to look for small things like that!
Ok so I allredy know that I wont install it at 4* retarded...
Any advantages of 4* advanced?? That would give me more low RPM torque right? what would be better for gasmilage straight up? or 4* advanced???
Ok so I allredy know that I wont install it at 4* retarded...
Any advantages of 4* advanced?? That would give me more low RPM torque right? what would be better for gasmilage straight up? or 4* advanced???
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