I have a 1993 7.3 Crew Cab manual that I picked up about 6 weeks ago. It ran great for awhile, but would not start unless I had the block heater plugged in. Keep in mind I live in California so it hasn't been below 55 degrees yet. After awhile it just wouldn't start at all. I checked the glow plugs and they were all bad, so I replaced them. It strarted and ran for a couple of days then started to stumble like it was a fuel problem. I changed the fuel filter, the old one seemed to be full of water. Once I changed it, it would start only after a coulple of trys. So, it is still hit or miss with the starting, even when the block has been plugged in all night. Would I even need the glow plugs to work if I had it plugged in?? Thanks!

 

LBJ75 welcome to FTE and the idi forum!!!!

you should be able to start without GP's if its plugged in.in your title it say non start when warm.is that after the engine has warmed up?if so your looking at a new injection pump most likely.

 

Thanks for the welcome!! It will start immediately after I shut it off, but if I wait for fifteen minutes or more it won't. When it drives, like today it runs great. Would there be symptoms when I was driving? Nothing seemed wrong while I was driving it.

 

Mine did that same thing it was an internal issue with the IP. Next time it won't restart hot apply power to the cold advance solenoid and I will bet it starts that is how mine was.

 

mine is at these beginning stages and soon to be replaced so one thing i have learned, pop the hood, press the schrader valve one timeto barely spurt fuel and mine fires instantly, if i dont do that, it is a pain. Now that i have become tired of doing that, i just pump the pedal four full times and it will fire that way too. Cold or hot, it starts instantly. at 140-160 it is a bear to get going sometimes haha. love this ol truck!

 

Where is the ' cold advance supply' ? Also unsure where the schrader valve is. I have a Chiltons book, but it has very little info.

 

schrader valve looks like a tire valve stem in the side of the fuel filter housing header. The cold advance solenoid is on the left side(looking at it) of the IP, looks like a black barrel with a copper rod sticking out of it that touches the throttle levers on the side of the IP, man that description sucks but you get the idea haha.


edit!! below is the pic that will help

 

[QUOTE=wreckinball;9572983]schrader valve looks like a tire valve stem in the side of the fuel filter housing header. The cold advance solenoid is on the left side(looking at it) of the IP, looks like a black barrel with a copper rod sticking out of it that touches the throttle levers on the side of the IP, man that description sucks but you get the idea haha.


edit!! below is the pic that will help
[/
QUOTE]

You guys are AWESOME!!! I have been wanting a diesel for so long and this being my first has made it a little frustrating. This helps a lot! As far as the
hot wire to the cold advance do I remove the connector and apply a hot from the battery and try to start it?

 

Did the schrader valve trick. Didn't get any fuel to come out, but that and pumping the pedal got it started. Where can I get a good used or rebuilt IP inexpensive?

 

i wonder if the lift pump is shot?pop the fuel line off that runs into the fuel filter or atleast take it loose and see if any fuel is getting to the IP

 

yeah definitely check the lift pump feed. if it is good, you need to make sure it isnt the ip being starved for fuel and not a mechanical issue with the ip. If you need some pics there as well let me know. ill find em for you. essentially remove the feed line that goes into the filter header and have someone crank it over to make sure it is getting the right amount of fuel, too little and your ip might be starving not broken.

 

If you have duel tanks the switch valve can cause you to take in air but if it runs good then after you get it started it shouldn't be that. You have any fuel leaks? You probably won't see any performance issues while you are drive if your pump is taking in air somewhere on the pump housing like the advance piston. It won't pull air in while it is running because of the housing pressure even though it is very low. If you are getting air in there it can give you lots of problems. Check the lift pump like they guys said but there is also a transfer pump in the injection pump. It supplies the "hydraulic head" that carries injection pressure. It should be 150 psi. There is a plug on the pump housing that that can be checked. The plug you take out to hook a gauge too looks like a bolt head. Like a 7/16 wrench would fit it. I can't remember for sure. It has been a long while. You can adjust that pressure but not something you need to do for everyday driving. The adjusting screw for that is behind the fitting where your fuel inlet line goes. Some pumps the screws were a slotting screw like a flat tip screw driver and some were an allen wrench headed thing. One thing to remember on these pumps. It is VERY critical that people maintain their fuel inlet system. Taking in air will eventually kill one of these pumps because the entire pump is lubed with fuel where most pumps the Gov. housing are lubed motor oil like the Bosch inline pumps. If you think it may be the shutoff sol. You can unscrew the top off of the pump and the shutoff sol will come with it. You can start it up with it off. It will leak fuel everywhere and you have to kill it with your finger you you will eliminate the shut off sol.

 

Good info. I will check the lift pump tomorrow, how will I know if it is too little?

Also, catfish101 can you explain that shutoff solenoid again? You think it may be causing a problem and the solution is to remove it or just remove it for testing? Thanks again guys, you rock!

 

Checked the lift pump and it seems to pump plenty of fuel. I also put a hot lead to the cold advance solenoid. I tried a hot to the solenoid and to the connector from the wiring harness. Seperately of course. Not sure which was the preferred method. Still got nothing. Maybe the IP is totally gone now??

This is a Banks turbo'd 93 that looks factory if that makes a difference.

 

is the shut off solenoid getting power?with the key in the run position pull the connector off of the solenoid and let us know if it clicks.if it does click the solenoid is working.