ttb rebuild
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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ttb rebuild
Getting ready for some new tires soon,but first I need to rebuild my twin traction beam.Is there any tricks to this front diff(never worked on ttb).I want to replace both upper ball joints and both lower ball joints,tie rod ends,all the u-joints inside the ttb,as well as brakes,bearings,and shocks.Does the diff need to be pulled out of the truck to change the inside u-joints?Ant tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Lawton, OK
Getting ready for some new tires soon,but first I need to rebuild my twin traction beam.Is there any tricks to this front diff(never worked on ttb).I want to replace both upper ball joints and both lower ball joints,tie rod ends,all the u-joints inside the ttb,as well as brakes,bearings,and shocks.Does the diff need to be pulled out of the truck to change the inside u-joints?Ant tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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I plan on replacing all the bushings with polyurethane.Has anybody ever had problems with the polyurethane bushings squeeking?Had a friend that put them on an explorer and it squeeked like crazy.Going to the junkyard and if I can find a F-350,I might do a straight axle swap after realizing how much time and money it is going to take to get the ttb back up to par.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 333
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From: Lawton, OK
Before you consider a SAS, thumb through this thread and pay attention to page 10:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ct-w-pics.html
Don't pay any attention to people who tell you that the TTB setup is junk. They're biased, and many of them have based their opinion only on either what they've read in the internet, or what their friends told them. Do your own research, ask questions, and make your own decision based on what you learned. It's your truck, you have to drive it, and you have to rely on it to get you to and from wherever you're going.
I've had plenty of chances to swap out my TTB for a solid D44...which I still have. Since I lifted mine, I have had ZERO problems or trail failures, and I wheel the crap out of mine. I've had it on trails where the suspension was fully extended on opposite corners and at full stuff on the others, even briefly had it up on two wheels, and I've driven it home every time. With the TTB still there.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ct-w-pics.html
Don't pay any attention to people who tell you that the TTB setup is junk. They're biased, and many of them have based their opinion only on either what they've read in the internet, or what their friends told them. Do your own research, ask questions, and make your own decision based on what you learned. It's your truck, you have to drive it, and you have to rely on it to get you to and from wherever you're going.
I've had plenty of chances to swap out my TTB for a solid D44...which I still have. Since I lifted mine, I have had ZERO problems or trail failures, and I wheel the crap out of mine. I've had it on trails where the suspension was fully extended on opposite corners and at full stuff on the others, even briefly had it up on two wheels, and I've driven it home every time. With the TTB still there.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,595
Likes: 5,623
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
for the money you will be spending to rebuild the TTB, you should be able to buy a D-60 and freshen it up too.
just make sure if you get the D-60 get the steering linkage, trak bar, and trak bar mounting bracket too
just make sure if you get the D-60 get the steering linkage, trak bar, and trak bar mounting bracket too
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 333
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From: Lawton, OK
My neighbor struggled with his when he installed his lift on his F-150. He made it harder than it needed to be simply out of stubbornness. I told him that...and I still tell him that. I installed my lift and rebuilt my front end all by my lonesome. The hardest part was the pivot bushings, and that was more because I used a torch instead of the correct tool. I'm happy the way my truck behaves, and I'm satisfied with it's demeanor on and off road. That doesn't mean that 20 years down the road when cars are powered by pancake syrup and ride on magnetic rails that I won't have a solid axle under it. I'd be fortunate just to have a solid body panel by that time.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,595
Likes: 5,623
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i get offered D-60 balljoint rears all the time for $300-500, and kingpin rears for $400-600 from the local junk yards. this is for complete units with steering linkage and track bar and bracket.
$1,000+ is ebay prices.
$1,000+ is ebay prices.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
The TTB isn't that hard to mess with and really doesn't seem like too bad of a setup except for the steering geometry. Changing balljoints isn't that bad, changing 2 of the u-joints won't be bad. Changing the 1 u-joint that is on the passenger side by the diff could be a bit of a pain. If your going to change all the bushings, guess what? Your going to have the TTB just hanging by a thread. The ONLY thing left holding it on will the the spring and the shocks. Wow, 2 more bolts and you will have the driver side beam out and can change the other u-joint, install the bushings, and raise it all back up into place. This was the first TTB I've ever worked on and it really wasn't bad to get it all out of the truck.
All this stuff can be done cheaper than buying a D60 and take way less time than it will take you to do an SAS
All this stuff can be done cheaper than buying a D60 and take way less time than it will take you to do an SAS
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 333
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From: Lawton, OK
$1000+ is the price you end up with if you find two or more people who want a kingpin 60 and get into a bidding war...forget Ebay. I paid $350 for that axle at the junkyard, but I had to pull it. I wouldn't let it go for less than $800. Call it greed, call it what you want. Even if you can find a 60 for $300-400, there's still all the parts that go along with it like the radius arms, steering brackets, rebuild parts...the list gets longer from there. Then there's the downtime. A simple overhaul, even a lift install, on a TTB front can be done in a weekend with the right tools and space, and the cost in parts can be covered by less than a whole paycheck. Having never put a lift kit on anything before, I had the front end completely out of my Bronco in 2 hours. I didn't have to torch anything.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,595
Likes: 5,623
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
it usually takes me rite around 6 hours to do a D-60 swap by myself, 3 1/2-4 hours with a helper. and that is total from drive in to drive out.
i cut the ttb out, and use all new bolts.
parts usually is around $500, and i charge $400 for the install
i prefer the kingpin D-60's, but they are getting harder to find
i cut the ttb out, and use all new bolts.
parts usually is around $500, and i charge $400 for the install
i prefer the kingpin D-60's, but they are getting harder to find
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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A friend of mine found a solid Dana 44 for me for $500.It already has 4.10 gears,and Im pretty sure I will be able to get all linkage and brackets with it for free.For the money,and time invested,I think the straight axle is the best bang for the buck.Hopefully everything goes smooth,any tips for the straight axle swap will be appreciated.Thanks for all the advise.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,006
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From: CASA GRANDE AZ
WHAT year is it ? WHAT did it come out of ? is it a low pinion or a high pinion ? are the spring pads the same width as what you have now ?
if it is a low pinion then you will have to redo your crossmember so you front drive shaft will work , and may need a new shaft !!
and is this new one in any better shape than what you have now ?
dont forget you will need new steering linkage for that setup !
you will also need to put a 4 inch spring lift on it so the pumpkin will not slam into the front crossmember !!
if it is a low pinion then you will have to redo your crossmember so you front drive shaft will work , and may need a new shaft !!
and is this new one in any better shape than what you have now ?
dont forget you will need new steering linkage for that setup !
you will also need to put a 4 inch spring lift on it so the pumpkin will not slam into the front crossmember !!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 60
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WHAT year is it ? WHAT did it come out of ? is it a low pinion or a high pinion ? are the spring pads the same width as what you have now ?
if it is a low pinion then you will have to redo your crossmember so you front drive shaft will work , and may need a new shaft !!
and is this new one in any better shape than what you have now ?
dont forget you will need new steering linkage for that setup !
you will also need to put a 4 inch spring lift on it so the pumpkin will not slam into the front crossmember !!
if it is a low pinion then you will have to redo your crossmember so you front drive shaft will work , and may need a new shaft !!
and is this new one in any better shape than what you have now ?
dont forget you will need new steering linkage for that setup !
you will also need to put a 4 inch spring lift on it so the pumpkin will not slam into the front crossmember !!