Burning Oil
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: San Francisco, CA
Burning Oil
Thank you to all who chimed in on this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...when-cold.html
Last week I got int there and performed a tune-up (new plugs, cap, rotor, points and condenser... even found a timing light that, with the help of the battery from my explorer, I re-timed the engine with). The truck runs great.
On to problem number 2. The plugs were badly oil-fouled. I was aware that the truck using a lot of oil (I usually had to put a half quart in after any major driving - 150 mile trip or so), but the funny thing is that it doesn't really smoke at all, nor does it really drip at all (one or two drips after sitting for a week). Now, the underside of the engine is coated with a lot of oil sludge and the gaskets are likely very old/shot in this engine, a 226 flathead six (as not much has been changed in 60 years). So, some thoughts on where to start troubleshooting the oil burning (easiest to assume I know nothing here)? Thank you for the help as always/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...when-cold.html
Last week I got int there and performed a tune-up (new plugs, cap, rotor, points and condenser... even found a timing light that, with the help of the battery from my explorer, I re-timed the engine with). The truck runs great.
On to problem number 2. The plugs were badly oil-fouled. I was aware that the truck using a lot of oil (I usually had to put a half quart in after any major driving - 150 mile trip or so), but the funny thing is that it doesn't really smoke at all, nor does it really drip at all (one or two drips after sitting for a week). Now, the underside of the engine is coated with a lot of oil sludge and the gaskets are likely very old/shot in this engine, a 226 flathead six (as not much has been changed in 60 years). So, some thoughts on where to start troubleshooting the oil burning (easiest to assume I know nothing here)? Thank you for the help as always/
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 171
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From: Long Beach/Crestline, Ca
when the oil usage starts fouling 1 or more plugs to the point of stopping that cylinder from firing it's time to either carry a few extra plugs or spend the money on a nice full rebuild.. crank turned ,, cylinder bored ,, new pistons ect ,, in the mean time if she runs good ,, dosen't knock or pump out clouds of blue smoke ,, drive on ,,you could get several more decades of use and not feed it much more oil per tank then it's using ..another thing to consider .. it got a road draft pipe ,,if she's got some blowby you could just be loosing that oil from the draft pipe ,, could account for the nice layer of protective oil on the engine/trans/frame 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,283
Likes: 1,046
From: NM
On flatheads (6 or 8) if it's actually using oil and fouling plugs, it's usually the rings. I don't remember the full history on your engine, but if it sat a long time the rings may be stuck or coked. You could try the Sea Foam soak procedure. Pull all the plugs, and put an oz. of Sea Foam in each cylinder. Let sit overnight. Rotate the engine 120 deg. by hand. Repeat soak with fresh Sea Foam. Next day crank with the plugs out using the starter, and rags over the plug holes, to clear any Sea Foam remaining. Put in the plugs and start it up, run at fast idle for 10 minutes -- it will likely smoke like crazy for a while, til the Sea Foam absorbed by the carbon is burned off.
Some folks do this with Marvel Mystery, but I used Sea Foam and it really worked great. It is sold at AutoZone and even WallyWorld, usually right next to the MMO.
If that doesn't help, you need new rings, at least.
Some folks do this with Marvel Mystery, but I used Sea Foam and it really worked great. It is sold at AutoZone and even WallyWorld, usually right next to the MMO.
If that doesn't help, you need new rings, at least.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: San Francisco, CA
The basic history of the engine is that it sat in the truck for a while. The PO got it up and running and just drove the crap out of it. I own it and drive the crap out of it when I can. When I changed the plugs, all 6 of them were fouled pretty badly.... I wouldn't be suprised if all the rings were toast. Given the pattern on the underside, I think a lot of oil is coming out through the downdraft tube.
I don't want to spend the money to fully rebuild it (yet of course). Maybe repairing the rings would be manageable... could that be a DIY job, or would I need to take it to a pro? On the Seafoam, how bad is the smell from the smoke? I live in a pretty densely populated area and I don't want the neighbors to get to upset.
I don't want to spend the money to fully rebuild it (yet of course). Maybe repairing the rings would be manageable... could that be a DIY job, or would I need to take it to a pro? On the Seafoam, how bad is the smell from the smoke? I live in a pretty densely populated area and I don't want the neighbors to get to upset.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 171
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From: Long Beach/Crestline, Ca
when i was young and broke i'd toss new rings and bearings in an engine but with the cost of parts and gasket kits now .. i just pull it and drop at the rebuilders ,, make nice i say ,,buy an air compressor and a sparkplug sandblaster ,, keep a set of fresh plugs and a plug wrench in the glovebox ,,,drive till she starts missing ,, swap in a fresh set ,,i drove a 53 plymouth flathead 6 like that for about 3 yrs ,,, long as it don't smoke bad enough to get ticketed ,,, and you can always add 2 cans of engine rebuild in a can at oil changes ,,, had a 60 TR3 we used that on for decades ,,,
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,283
Likes: 1,046
From: NM
A lot of times returning these old engines to life after they've sat for a long time is pretty rough on the rings. The cylinders could have mild corrosion, PO's pouring gas down the carb to get it to kick, etc. The rings take a beating and they probably weren't great to begin with. Honestly, I'm like Ford14, used to run down to JCWhitney and get a set of rings, a gasket set, and maybe even bearings, could be done for under a hundred bucks and they'd run great for as long as I had them. I don't think the economics are that different now. Pull the head, ream the ridge, drop the pan, take off the rod caps, and scuff the bores with Scotchbrite. You could be done in a weekend easily, and probably for $200 - 300 bucks, if you don't let it get out of hand. You won't get a rebuild under two grand.
On the other hand, someone may be selling a flat 6 in better shape for the same money.
On the other hand, someone may be selling a flat 6 in better shape for the same money.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Have you run a compression check on it? That might give you some indication abou the condition of the rings (valves too). Maybe hooking up a vacuum gauge to it to look at a few things might help too.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 171
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From: Long Beach/Crestline, Ca
when i finally decided to rebuild the plymouth flathead 6 i opened a HUGE can of worms ,, then couldn't get all the worms back in the can ,,, near as i can figure it had never had the oil changed the pan was FULL of tar/coke/unknown goo with enough room around the oilpickup for about a quart of actual liquid oil .. the crank was so worn that once i cleaned off the gunk the rods all rattled.. cleaned out the pan ,, filled that bad boy with 90 wt ..sold it to a local movie studio car supplier..and yes i told him the crank was fulla 90 wt .. he didn't care as the cars only move on and off a trailer for the most part ...so be warned .. open at your own risk ..
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
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From: San Jose, CA
Same is happening in my 37 Airflow. It sat for about 15 years before I got it running again. It's a flat 8, but only working on about 6, as two of the cylinders have low pressure (20-30). It smokes a lot when I first start it, but then calms down a bit after driving it. It does leak a lot of oil just by sitting and the bottom of my engine and transmssion are just like what you describe. The guy that worked on getting it running after it sat told me that my rings are likely shot. So, I'd agree with others and say that the rings likely need to be replaced.
If you need help with the engine, I know a guy that can do it. He helped me get the 52 Panel back on the road and he's extremely reasonable in price. Plus, he knows his stuff.
If you need help with the engine, I know a guy that can do it. He helped me get the 52 Panel back on the road and he's extremely reasonable in price. Plus, he knows his stuff.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,283
Likes: 1,046
From: NM
Compression that low usually indicates valve problems; but rings that are letting lots of oil past can crap up the valves to the point they are stuck off the seat.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Step one is check your tune up settings to make sure they are correct - idle mixture and timing especially.
Step two is to install a vacuum guage and test for vacuum leaks, valve leakage and ring leakage.
Step three is to conduct a compression check to see if the compression is lacking because of ring leak on all cylinders, or specific cylinders.
Then if oil is creeping into the cylinders due to bad head gaskets or valves you'll know.
Do the right analysis before you condemn an engine!
Come on guys..this is fundamental engine anaylsis!
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