Hi everybody. I'm working on my sisters Hippy bus (really), and am having governor problems. The bus is a '76, with custom (ahem) graphics, but the real problem is that she had a breakdown on the hwy a little while back, and a local mechanic in another state replaced the Holley 4 bbl carb with an Edelbrock. He tried to do a good job of disabling the distributor mounted governor, but seems to have caused more problems than he solved. The bus wouldn't go over 45 mph after the "conversion" and developed a really bad oil leak. She limped the bus here (she lives in another state), and here it sits. The first thing I tried was to retrieve the original cab & have it rebuilt. This did help, but the air lines through the distributor were plugged with epoxy, so I can't reconnect the air lines in the original configuration. I purchased a factory service manual, but it does not depict the distributor the bus has. Ours has a high pressure oil line, and another vacuum port not shown in the manual. I really need to come up with the information for the distributor we have. The oil line was plugged with a screw at (ahem) the time of the repair, and leaks profusely. I'm still trying to track down all the vacuum leaks. A little more information would probably help here- the bus is a 1976 B700 with what I believe is a 391, the tag is missing from the coil hold down so I'm not 100% certain. The carb is a Holley 7158-1 4bbl with all the governor parts intact. I have used the search function here and see where it is possible to get an adapter to use a 390 distributor, but I can't find any information on just where this bushing goes, and if it can be installed without major engine disassembly. I've owned Fords most of my life, but this oneis really getting on my nerves. Any suggestions, beside arson?

 

I wouldn'th think a adaptor would be needed to install a 390 car distributor. Won't it just drop right in and work?
You have warned your sis about not blowing the engine without a rpm limiter installed right?
If you think there might be problem with that you could always get a MSD brand limiter.

 

A FE distributor will not work in a FT or HD style block , the oil pump drive is larger and so is the pilot hole in the block. If you change oil pumps and drives and install the bushing in the block a FE distributor will work. All that is needed to disable the govenor is to replace the carb , if the distibutor is in good working order it should run OK. Once the carb is changed the vacuum lines to the distributor do nothing , The distributor controlled the govenor part of the carb.

Have A Great Day----- Hotwrench

 

Well I learned new information today.

 

Thank you. We've since found more issues with the engine, and now it's future looks grim. Kind of a pity really, it's been wired for camper style 110V, the seats have been removed, and outside of the Hippy paint job, it's a really straight old bus. The 391 doesn't appear to be up to the task of getting the bus to Florida.

 

where are you located ?

 

you need to get pics of that thing up on here RIGHT NOW!!!

 

Im a little confused in what you say a high pressure oil line? Thats new to
me. Just replace with new vac hoses. One to the distrubutor spinner to
the carb. gov is under vacuum, and the other hose is a breather. Now you
plan to put the Holley back on. First test, take off the vac line off the
carb, start engine put youre finger on this port (side of gov) the engine
should not race up do nothing but idle, take finger off, now engine will race up - If all this works the carb. gov. is ok. Im sure you read the book
and to adjust no load rpm is a pain that is where the vac line goes to
the spinner with a square head= remove this nut maybe 9/16. I find the
best way is to turn engine over by the fan until the (I think 5/16) nut
comes around into view. With small socket clockwise increase or ccw
to decrease rpms this is time consuming i set them to 3200rpms and I
know the book says more but 3200 wont hurt that 391. Also not sure
where you are but- from 32* to even 38-39* especially raining or snowing
prepaire to baby sit for awhile they do not like it- black smoke wont race
up or not run at all. If one does not know the nature of these they go
and buy another carb. If anybody ever had a V6 GMC at 40*s they will
tell ya what im talking about.

 

Thank you Big Job. I finally managed to sort out the vacuum system and had the engine running really well. However, age caught up with the old girl, I suspect we had a valve guide come apart or something similar. It's a long complicated story, but We're not going into the engine at all. I've had some requests for pics, which I'll get as soon as I can, but the old girl needs a new home. It's too bad in a way, my sister just spent a small fortune on the brakes and tires before leaving Washington state. She made it as far as Nebraska.

 

I agree with Busguy,,,,,Need a pic!!

Just watched Taking Woodstock, how ironic

 

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...agicBus012.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...agicBus006.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...agicBus003.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...agicBus001.jpg

 

It appears that the bus decided to thank me for all my hard work to ready it for the remainder of it's trip by shucking the timing chain. There is also an issue with #8 cylinder which may or may not be related. Anyway, I'm done working on it.

 

The information I originally gave was given to me by an "experienced" mechanic. Unfortunately, his experiences were not with Ford medium duty engines and he probably cost me more time than anything, trying to follow his recommendations. First of all, the bus has a normal governor type distributor, and the vacuum lines were removed. The so-called hydraulic line was actually the hose to the left side of the carbs center housing. The one that supplies air to the inlet port on the distributor. I didn't know any better, but I do now. Once I figured out how the governor system works, life became much simpler and I had the bus running well in a short amount of time. Until the timing chain let go...

 

That's to bad cuz as you know the timing set is a piece of cake to R&R. Seems a waist after all the money into it already. Put the timing set in. It would take less than a day. Or build a room for Sis. What would be better?

 

However replacing timing chain set is no big deal or project but take note:
It just came to mind - the last 391 I rebuilt the instructions that came
with the chain and gear set warned about the timing cover bolts which
must be put in exactly where they came out, so do not mix them up.
All I remember that is somewhere in the area of the timing pointer. It was
described as a thin area and if a wrong bolt (lenght wise) will crack the
block. I beleive the Mfg. was Hastings try google that.