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Another newbie member of the Orphan Brigade! My daughter and I are working on a 1959 F100 with the 223CI engine. We bought it a few weeks back, drove it an hour home, and then around town for a few days. We noticed an oil leak around the push rod cover, so we got the gasket and opened it up. Here's what we found:
One of the four mounting ears on the block, the right one in this picture, is busted. The previous owner put a shorter bolt with two nuts on the back of the cover so oil wouldn't leak out the grommet. The other bolts on the cover were over tightened, so the cover is warped and the oil leaked out. Here's a close up:
What are my choices here? Some have suggested a helicoil, JBWelding a nut to the block, bridging the cover with a metal strap on the outside, or just tapping new threads. I'm hesitant to put anything in that could break loose, and I don't know how much metal I have to tap in to. Your thoughts?
My first thought was someone had to try really hard to break off that boss like that. It's not like it's a high stress or high torque area. Are there any threads at all in the hole? If so, I think I would epoxy a stud in place and use a nut on the outside of the cover to hold the cover in place. Just make sure the area is very clean and free from any oil residue before gluing anything.
Another newbie member of the Orphan Brigade! My daughter and I are working on a 1959 F100 with the 223CI engine. We bought it a few weeks back, drove it an hour home, and then around town for a few days. We noticed an oil leak around the push rod cover, so we got the gasket and opened it up. Here's what we found:
One of the four mounting ears on the block, the right one in this picture, is busted. The previous owner put a shorter bolt with two nuts on the back of the cover so oil wouldn't leak out the grommet. The other bolts on the cover were over tightened, so the cover is warped and the oil leaked out. Here's a close up:
What are my choices here? Some have suggested a helicoil, JBWelding a nut to the block, bridging the cover with a metal strap on the outside, or just tapping new threads. I'm hesitant to put anything in that could break loose, and I don't know how much metal I have to tap in to. Your thoughts?
Dad
Wayne has a good idea. I'm kind of intrigued by the "bridge". I would, perhaps, explore some 1/8" strap tack welded on the inside, it may look a bit neater. After straightening the cover first, of course. Then drill through the bridge for the bolts to pass. I would combine this with Wayne's idea. The bridge would help support the epoxied stud.
I'm kind of curious as to why it was broken as well. Perhaps it was rough-housed during a rebuild once upon a time.
Perhaps Devcon or even good ol' JB WELD, but as Wayne said, make sure it is as clean as can be!
And I have to say from one father to another, that it is neat to hear your daughter is out helping you. My daughter is just 21 months, but this summer she wanted to help me tune her stroller. She would grab screws or screwdrivers and find a hole that needed filling. I hope I can keep cultivating that in her. It would be fun to have her help me with my Marmon Herrington or my old ****** Jeep someday.
An afterthought, before you "glue" the stud into place, maybe you should see how far in it will go. Mark it while in place, give a 1/16" or so for the epoxy, then weld (with electricity, not JB) a flat washer on it's shank. Apply epoxy to the threads, and on the back side of the washer, then screw into place. My thinking on this is to give a bigger surface area for the epoxy.
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