Oil Change??
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Tampa
Oil Change??
OK, I have 1200 miles on the truck. I'm Planing on going camping next week up to Hilton head SC."about 400 mile's one way" I was thinking of pulling out the original oil and putting in 15w40 dino oil. Or shouldn't I worry about it and let it eat. Do you guys know, if the factory oil is 10w30? My Trailer is 10000 lb's
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Epic put up his first oil analysis and it said 10W30 was the oil. I don't know if Blackstone has that info from Ford or if they are able to determine the type of oil from their analysis.
I thought the manual said 15W40 was recommended only for BioDiesel? Maybe I'm remembering that wrong.
I thought the manual said 15W40 was recommended only for BioDiesel? Maybe I'm remembering that wrong.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Tampa
Epic put up his first oil analysis and it said 10W30 was the oil. I don't know if Blackstone has that info from Ford or if they are able to determine the type of oil from their analysis.
I thought the manual said 15W40 was recommended only for BioDiesel? Maybe I'm remembering that wrong.
I thought the manual said 15W40 was recommended only for BioDiesel? Maybe I'm remembering that wrong.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 266
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From: Sunshine Coast, BC
It is also hard to find 10W30 CJ-4 non-synthetic.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: North of Salt Lake City
If you're worried about putting a synthetic in the engine too early you may consider Rotella T6. It calls itself a 100% synthetic but it's really only a sorta-synthetic because it is comprised of a large portion of group III base. It doesn't take much to classify as severe duty and require a 5W-40 oil according to the owner's manual and it is a great weight considering the winter season is upon us.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Tampa
If you're worried about putting a synthetic in the engine too early you may consider Rotella T6. It calls itself a 100% synthetic but it's really only a sorta-synthetic because it is comprised of a large portion of group III base. It doesn't take much to classify as severe duty and require a 5W-40 oil according to the owner's manual and it is a great weight considering the winter season is upon us.
Thanks, But someone forgot to tell mother nature it's winter here. Its 85 today.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Greenwood, SC
One could also take the complete opposite position, you may want your first 5000 miles or more to be run on the original oil so that the internal engine parts actually DO wear a little bit.
I ran 5K on my original oil, most of it pulling our camper and also trailers for work. After that, I now just change it when the truck tells me to.
I ran 5K on my original oil, most of it pulling our camper and also trailers for work. After that, I now just change it when the truck tells me to.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Maryland
I wouldn't worry about changing the oil so soon. If you are concerned about the break in period, I would suggest changing just the filter and top the oil off with some Motorcraft 10w30. Lack of filter capacity is more of a problem on diesels than the ability for the oil to last longer. I only have 1750 miles on mine right now but somewhere between 2500 and 3000 I intend to change the filter itself. After that I will ride it out until the "smart" truck tells me it's time for an oil change.
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I wouldn't worry about changing the oil so soon. If you are concerned about the break in period, I would suggest changing just the filter and top the oil off with some Motorcraft 10w30. Lack of filter capacity is more of a problem on diesels than the ability for the oil to last longer. I only have 1750 miles on mine right now but somewhere between 2500 and 3000 I intend to change the filter itself. After that I will ride it out until the "smart" truck tells me it's time for an oil change.
My biggest concern for that would be the oil dilution...if its adding fuel in the oil from regen and its close to telling you to change it and then you change the filter and set the oil level to its correct level...now the level is right but the dilution is all wrong....??? Is my thinking off??
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Maryland
The oil change indicator does not in any way analyze the oil itself. The computer calculates the approximate miles for an oil change interval based on driving style, idle time, number of regens, etc. If the computer has such a great handle on the actual oil quality, why do you have to manually reset it after an oil change?
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The oil change indicator does not in any way analyze the oil itself. The computer calculates the approximate miles for an oil change interval based on driving style, idle time, number of regens, etc. If the computer has such a great handle on the actual oil quality, why do you have to manually reset it after an oil change?
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2010
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We didn't analyze any factory-fill oil from ours, but we did and do change out the factory oil very soon (within 100 - 200 miles of delivery). Analyses on the following samples (~900 - 1000 miles on oil, ~1000 - 1200 on trucks) show that there's still elevated levels of wear metals and contaminants from break-in. We expect that, but those elevated metals levels are why we dump the factory-fill oil extremely early, and do 1 additional early change. From there, we'll drain the next time at ~10,000 miles so long as the previous analysis supports that interval.